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Over the weekend, the two of us installed the entire remaining floor heating system in the house. During this, the mentioned loop with the kink was removed again.

In two rooms, we messed up and installed one loop too long. So now we have one circuit with 100m and one with 82m in each. But with a 17mm pipe, the 100m should still be okay. Considering that we are complete amateurs at this, I am satisfied with the result: a total of 31 circuits between 75 and 100m measured from the collector (except for the small loop in the basement hallway. There is a slight undercoverage there but it is not that important) and a laying spacing of max. 10 cm. Today our heating technician will take a quick look, and tomorrow the screed will be applied.

How did you arrive at a 10 cm installation distance for every room? I know from my experience that it is installed depending on the room between 5 cm (bathrooms) and 30 cm (cellar). Depending on the room and also window sizes in the south, etc.

So a tip before the screed comes: definitely insulate the supply lines at the heating circuit distributor, otherwise the room will overheat there and you won't be able to control it (directly)?

How did you come to a 10 cm pipe spacing for every room? I know it is done in my place depending on the room between 5 cm (bathrooms) and 30 cm (basement). Depending on the room and also window sizes in the south, etc.

Why should the largest pipe spacing be chosen in the coldest room (basement)? That doesn’t make sense to me. With a tighter pipe spacing, you can reduce the supply temperature, which allows for a more efficient operation of the heat pump. In rooms that get too warm, adjustments can be made at the heating circuit distributor. Additionally, we will build without actively used ERR, so the self-regulating effect of the underfloor heating can be used across all rooms. With this pipe layout, we reach 30 °C supply temperature and a 5 K temperature difference. Our neighbors had their floors laid and their heating is designed with a pipe spacing of 15-20 cm and a supply temperature of 34 °C. That is about 10-15% efficiency loss of the heat pump.

So a tip before the screed comes: definitely insulate the supply lines at the heating circuit distributor, otherwise the room will overheat there and you cannot (directly) control it?

The screed has been in since yesterday and that’s fine as is. The rooms are not controlled and the hallways do not have their own heating circuits either (due to lack of space). Here too, all pipes are laid so that there is a 10 cm pipe spacing and the room is heated equally like all other rooms.

Since we're just talking about underfloor heating ...
We are considering installing underfloor heating in the attic, which will be renovated soon.
[ATTACH alt="Dachgeschoss.jpeg" type="full"]61278[/ATTACH]
The existing floor is an uneven concrete surface.
My plan:
1. Level the concrete
2. Lay wood fiber boards (2 or 3 cm thick) on top as soundproofing and impact sound insulation (there is no moisture from below, so no foil)
3. Install underfloor heating pipes
4. Pour screed
Either linoleum will be laid on top, ... or the screed will get a floor-suitable surface.
Since the floor will be warm, I would also like a stone floor in a living space. I'm getting used to concrete. White concrete can be easily colored ...
... and I have read that underfloor heating - within limits - can also cool. Although it is well insulated, it can get warm there in summer.

Is this a good plan?
Or have I overlooked something?

The basic approach is understandable, but the installation distances and thus the heat input should be calculated based on the room-specific heating load. A flat VA10 only makes limited sense, as with too much flow it would have to be throttled again. Greater distances in the basement can certainly make sense, for example if living rooms are heated to 22° and the basement only to 19°, or large window areas on the ground floor mean higher heating load ;) Both variants, however, are only so-so when done generally or roughly.

Both variants are just so-so when done roughly or by rule of thumb.

If it's only about that: The layout was of course calculated by our HVAC planner and coordinated with the air conditioning/heating engineer. I also wouldn't have done anything based on suspicion.