Bauhaus concrete villa with core insulation - experiences

You can always add a switch to your network later. 5 outlets are very few. Please use at least double outlets everywhere and also run them as duplex or with two lines.

As Rick already wrote, 5 network sockets are the absolute minimum. The network sockets have nothing to do with home automation and KNX. They are purely there to distribute your internet in the house and enable data exchange between your devices at home.

There is a central point in the house, usually in the utility room, where all cables end and where the technology is placed. Then you have to decide whether everything should go into a network cabinet, multimedia distributor, or simply be nailed to the wall. Each network socket should be designed as a double socket and connected with 2 installation cables. To remain flexible in the future, the installation cables should be laid in a conduit so they can be replaced if necessary. At least one double socket in every room. Where more is possibly needed now, like the living room or office, of course more. Don’t forget the hobby room and garage. This was all for the stationary devices. For WLAN, at least 1 access point per floor. Whether that is sufficient depends on the floor plan. I prefer APs that go on the ceiling or at least high up on the wall. An outdoor access point for the terrace and garden is often forgotten.

Open a new thread on this topic.

cat7 and the Fritzbox will probably do the job

Yes, the Fritzbox works perfectly for most people in the house. Connect a bit of WLAN, TV, and Playstation by cable... done. It’s hard to imagine in an internet forum, but quite a few households don’t have a PC. Anyway, if the FB is not enough, you can always install other switches, access points, etc. But that only works if you haven’t been too stingy with network connections! So yes, run cables to every room, provide APs on the ceiling, and lay cables, etc. Very important.

In the bathrooms, we have a seamless system from the company Dold. The floor to wall is sealed with PU compound.

Since I haven't really found anything useful, could you tell me roughly what the price per m² is?

Not cheaper in price than high-quality tiles.
So nothing to save.

I need to come back to the mastic asphalt or more precisely to the copper pipes. We are also planning to use such a floor, but our underfloor heating expert strongly advises against it because he no longer wants to install copper. Reason: It is more susceptible to corrosion and anyway, it is no longer done, so he wants to lay standard screed and then parquet or vinyl on top, which we of course do not want. In short, the question to Rick: Which copper alloy did you use?