Floor plan planning shortly before submitting the building application

  • Erstellt am 2017-10-02 23:25:16

Alex85

2018-07-08 12:34:34
  • #1
Well, the philosophy is not entirely wrong. It also involves shifting dew points, frost protection of the pipes, etc. Nevertheless, one has quite liberally installed the pipes in the Räuber, as can be seen now. The wall cabinet will probably no longer be a 90 cm one.
 

matte

2018-07-08 13:08:20
  • #2
Then have the slot made 18x18cm and lined with EPS. I stand by it, you can also overdo it.
 

Bookstar

2018-07-08 13:12:39
  • #3
yes, that's how I see it too. Although your description would also be botched, the procedure is not correct. But certainly better than what we see here now!
 

11ant

2018-07-08 14:52:34
  • #4
But there is also a ceiling breakthrough here, probably due to the wastewater from the children's bathroom, and thus the pipe is unavoidable and logical. Regarding the usefulness of ignoring the connection with the kitchen planning here, I agree with you, but that doesn't help here. The pipe will have to be enclosed and the cabinet built narrower. By the way, I would measure the sockets (I see a desired height without reference to raw or finished floor). The window is correctly a fixed element at this width, but in the kitchen plan it is made pivotable. In the picture, it also looks like it has pivot fittings (?)
 

R.Hotzenplotz

2018-07-08 18:23:53
  • #5
Interesting how thick the boxing has to be. All the electrical cables still have to go in there as well. I’m pessimistic about it. Maybe the whole thing has to be routed down on the left side of the window and then disappear through the floor with the kitchen island.



Do you mean in the kitchen or in general? What height do you see there? No one asked me how they should be executed – supposedly everything is standard size – same with the light switches. Should I ask the electrician which floor buildup he assumed?



The window is a fixed element.
 

R.Hotzenplotz

2018-07-08 22:07:21
  • #6


I went there again especially after your post and measured as well as took photos.

As I already said, nothing was coordinated with me but they said it would be done according to standard.

First of all the heights of the standard sockets. From the rough floor I measure between 45 and 47 cm to the center of the red socket. One might think they took the 16 cm screed into account and nothing else. At our home the center of the finished socket is at 30 cm above the finished floor.

Then we also have two rows of sockets both in the study, where the desk will go, and on the TV wall. The center of the lower switch row is at a height of 31 cm above the rough floor.




The sockets for the kitchen appliances are 26 cm high above the rough floor.



Then I also dealt with the light switches or room controllers. They are centered at 122 cm height above the rough floor. That seems low to me. At home it is 110 cm above the finished floor and I find that appropriate. I will have to check what the standard is. Whether it fits as executed.

I think I hadn’t posted any recent photos showing the cables in the kitchen properly tied together. Now you first become aware of what a huge boxing needs to go there! Amazing! That ruins the whole kitchen!




No idea how this could even remotely match the kitchen planning.

I also have a hard time deciding between Durgo vs. ventilation pipe through child 1. Overall, I find it difficult, with or without pipe, to find a sensible bed placement in connection with the sockets and the light switch. I think it is not well positioned.



I also climbed the scaffolding and took a picture of the solar system.

 

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