Air-water heat pump current consumption and data

What is stated in the energy certificate is not very meaningful. Generally, such comparisons are always of little help because they depend on far too many factors.

What is stated in the energy performance certificate is not very meaningful. Generally, such comparisons rarely help, as it simply depends on far too many factors.

I am aware that the information in the energy performance certificate does not allow a 1:1 comparison. But can't you at least recognize a certain direction? Conversely, if someone has an Ht of 0.2 and another has one of 0.3, you can assume that the building envelope in the first case has better insulation values, right?

In general, I do find such help as guidance quite good. Specifically, they are of course not to be compared, that is clear to me. There are one or two examples here who only started researching and optimizing recently. Therefore, I find it helpful.

What is stated in the ID can at best serve as a reference point, provided everything was calculated correctly and also executed accordingly during construction.

If someone has an Ht of 0.2 and another has one of 0.3, you can assume that the building envelope in case 1 has better insulation values, right?

Yes, you can assume that, but it doesn't necessarily have to be the case and also has little to do with heating consumption. Windows, sun, wind, indoor temperature, ventilation behavior, neighboring buildings all have a greater influence than an Ht of 0.2 or 0.5, but are difficult to assess.

Evaluated today for the last 24 hours:

Outside temperature approx. 1 degree
Required heat quantity in the last 24 hours: 90 kwh (water and heating)
Power consumption: 24 kwh

90/24= COP 3.75.

That's not completely crazy now, but it's not really good either for a KFW55 house with a state-of-the-art air heat pump. I would like to be over 4.x.

I will now carry out a new hydraulic balancing when it gets colder, I think there is a short circuit there and thus energy is unnecessarily wasted.

But otherwise, everything is actually already optimized as far as possible.

Can you tell me what kind of performance your UWP delivers? Mine uses between 11 and 18 watts, which I find extremely low and makes me think. I'm afraid that the warm water in the pipes is "starving." I still don't know whether I should set the UWP to constant or proportional pressure when I use ERR... I can't make sense of the links on the web and everyone says something different :-P