Daniel-Sp
2019-12-15 20:17:33
- #1
Hello
[/QUOTE]
Since we have no information about the heating circuits (length, installation spacing), I would do it like this.
Turn all circuits up to the maximum except for
1. Small bathroom: Here it can be assumed that the heating circuit is very short and there is a risk of thermal short circuit, so start with 0.3 - 0.5 l/min. When the IR thermometer arrives please measure the return flow; it should be about the same as the return flow of the other heating circuits. If it is higher, you need to reduce the flow further; if it is lower, you should allow a bit more.
2. Utility room usually requires somewhat less heat; here I would proceed as follows: turn fully on and then close the flow meter by half a turn; further adjustments can be made once the house has stabilized. Probably less will be possible later as well.
3. Parents' bedroom and dressing room: Here you can limit the flow right away to initially 1 l for the bedroom and 0.75 l for the dressing room (or 0.75 - 0.5). When you have the thermometer, you should also measure both return flows here and then equalize their temperatures by adjusting the flow.
4. All, really all thermostatic radiator valves (TRVs) to MAX (if the actuators are not already removed).
5. Also heat the hallway, otherwise it will draw heat from the other rooms (bathroom!) and you need the flow there to achieve the minimum volume flow.
6. When the IR thermometer arrives, please measure the return flow of the heating circuits. Larger differences must be re-adjusted (with the above exceptions).
7. Monitor room temperature in parallel (also necessary due to lack of information about the underfloor heating).
Always keep in mind that even a slight adjustment of one flow meter changes the flow of the other heating circuits!
For safety, you can note down how many turns each heating circuit is currently closed; then you can always revert it. Also note every change and write down what effect it has on the room temperature; then you can always return to a previous setting.
Also note how the bypass valve was set by the heating engineer, so you can turn it back any time. Since you have almost reached the minimum volume flow now, after opening the heating circuits there will surely be enough flow, and you can slowly close it.
It will probably be too warm at first. Don’t lose your nerves and try to reduce the temperature via the thermostatic radiator valves but rather by turning down the heating curve. You will have to wait about 24 hours after each change. Possibly longer now after the first adjustment, since the screed is not yet heated throughout the entire house (rooms currently with zero flow). Depending on the energy standard you might end up with 29/22/0 or even lower.
This will save a lot of money.
Only when you have found the right heating curve can you possibly reduce the flow and thus heat input slightly in some rooms via the flow meters. But carefully, you always have to keep an eye on the total volume flow; it should be at least 1600 l/h or 26.6 l/min (minimum volume flow of the LAD, see technical data); 2000 l/h (33.3 l/min) would be better, but you probably won’t reach that.
The bathroom with many exterior walls will be problematic; if necessary, you will have to preheat with the electric towel warmer half an hour before planned use, then turn it off again. A room that is used maybe half an hour to an hour a day should not serve as the lead room and be heated at high temperature 24/7. That only costs unnecessary money.
I would initially define a core temperature for the house as target temperature. So first assume one temperature for all rooms except bedroom and utility room. Once you have reached that everywhere, the first hydraulic balancing is done. Then follows the thermal balancing, i.e. carefully limiting the rooms that should be a bit cooler.
At the latest when the thermal balancing is done, you should consider removing the actuators and disconnecting power. This will save power and secondly prevent an untrained user from invalidating your thermal balancing.
If you have implemented points 1-5, feel free to share the achieved flow rates here again.
Have fun and a good evening
Daniel
[/QUOTE]
Since we have no information about the heating circuits (length, installation spacing), I would do it like this.
Turn all circuits up to the maximum except for
1. Small bathroom: Here it can be assumed that the heating circuit is very short and there is a risk of thermal short circuit, so start with 0.3 - 0.5 l/min. When the IR thermometer arrives please measure the return flow; it should be about the same as the return flow of the other heating circuits. If it is higher, you need to reduce the flow further; if it is lower, you should allow a bit more.
2. Utility room usually requires somewhat less heat; here I would proceed as follows: turn fully on and then close the flow meter by half a turn; further adjustments can be made once the house has stabilized. Probably less will be possible later as well.
3. Parents' bedroom and dressing room: Here you can limit the flow right away to initially 1 l for the bedroom and 0.75 l for the dressing room (or 0.75 - 0.5). When you have the thermometer, you should also measure both return flows here and then equalize their temperatures by adjusting the flow.
4. All, really all thermostatic radiator valves (TRVs) to MAX (if the actuators are not already removed).
5. Also heat the hallway, otherwise it will draw heat from the other rooms (bathroom!) and you need the flow there to achieve the minimum volume flow.
6. When the IR thermometer arrives, please measure the return flow of the heating circuits. Larger differences must be re-adjusted (with the above exceptions).
7. Monitor room temperature in parallel (also necessary due to lack of information about the underfloor heating).
Always keep in mind that even a slight adjustment of one flow meter changes the flow of the other heating circuits!
For safety, you can note down how many turns each heating circuit is currently closed; then you can always revert it. Also note every change and write down what effect it has on the room temperature; then you can always return to a previous setting.
Also note how the bypass valve was set by the heating engineer, so you can turn it back any time. Since you have almost reached the minimum volume flow now, after opening the heating circuits there will surely be enough flow, and you can slowly close it.
It will probably be too warm at first. Don’t lose your nerves and try to reduce the temperature via the thermostatic radiator valves but rather by turning down the heating curve. You will have to wait about 24 hours after each change. Possibly longer now after the first adjustment, since the screed is not yet heated throughout the entire house (rooms currently with zero flow). Depending on the energy standard you might end up with 29/22/0 or even lower.
This will save a lot of money.
Only when you have found the right heating curve can you possibly reduce the flow and thus heat input slightly in some rooms via the flow meters. But carefully, you always have to keep an eye on the total volume flow; it should be at least 1600 l/h or 26.6 l/min (minimum volume flow of the LAD, see technical data); 2000 l/h (33.3 l/min) would be better, but you probably won’t reach that.
The bathroom with many exterior walls will be problematic; if necessary, you will have to preheat with the electric towel warmer half an hour before planned use, then turn it off again. A room that is used maybe half an hour to an hour a day should not serve as the lead room and be heated at high temperature 24/7. That only costs unnecessary money.
I would initially define a core temperature for the house as target temperature. So first assume one temperature for all rooms except bedroom and utility room. Once you have reached that everywhere, the first hydraulic balancing is done. Then follows the thermal balancing, i.e. carefully limiting the rooms that should be a bit cooler.
At the latest when the thermal balancing is done, you should consider removing the actuators and disconnecting power. This will save power and secondly prevent an untrained user from invalidating your thermal balancing.
If you have implemented points 1-5, feel free to share the achieved flow rates here again.
Have fun and a good evening
Daniel