Underfloor heating air-water heat pump. House too warm when the sun shines

LAD 9 or LADV 9?
LAD 9 unfortunately does not mean load-controlled
How many sqm do you have? Which energy standard, energy saving ordinance or a KfW level?
LAD 9 also means
Minimum volume flow 1600l/h, nominal volume flow 2000l/h. That’s quite a statement... But it doesn’t help, you have to tackle it. When I look at your two CSVs, you still have about 30 compressor starts per day. That is far too many.
But first, finish the listing and then we’ll see further.
But I’m afraid 24`C in the bathroom is not achievable...
I will get back to you as soon as you have compiled the data. The tubes usually indicate l/min. It would be optimal if you can reach 27 l/min
Regards, Daniel

LAD 9

Hello Daniel, I created the table, it should be roughly correct with the l/min (l/min is the mark that reaches the end of the red head of the float, right?!). What is already too much is for EG Small Bathroom, we don't need that much heating power, the bathroom is tiny. UG Dressing Room also doesn't need 2.5, rather 1. The main bathroom in the UG needs more, and the hallways also a bit, I would say.

You should reconsider the desired temperatures. In the hallway 18 and in the adjacent bathroom [4-5°C difference] will not work. Maybe [2°C] with closed doors. Keep in mind that the bathroom releases heat to the hallway, and the more significant the difference, the more heat is transferred. Rooms with zero flow are not allowed. You need the volume flow!

Have you now dismantled the actuators?

Have you now disassembled the actuators?

What exactly are actuators? Yes, regarding the temperatures, that was just a rough estimate - of course, that can be adjusted differently. I have now set all individual room controllers to full mode. Now I am looking down at the heat pump, it has been off for 2 hours. It hasn't done that for ages, it usually switches on constantly. That's a good sign, it doesn't seem to be getting too hot anywhere so far.

Actuators are the white parts on top of the heating circuit distributor. You should better remove them. Otherwise, they might suddenly shut off the heating circuit. However, you need a continuous flow in the heating circuits for the heat pump. You set the room temperature once via the flow, permanently. With ERR, it otherwise looks like in the picture (I quickly googled it) look at the upper graph. The red and blue curves are supply and return, the dark green VD1 is the compressor, which switches on and off repeatedly. Please compare this with the graph from a few days ago of my heat pump and consider which operation is gentler on the material and which heat pump will last longer.