Experiences with brine heat pump

The size of the heat pump was calculated by the construction company with "sufficient safety" upwards ... I don't know more.

Buffer tank only the integrated 180 liters, no external one
Individual room controllers throughout the entire house
Hot water is set to 52 degrees.

So I should rather be concerned about the 12800 compressor impulses - how can this be optimized?

I need to take action regarding the meter soon. Any recommendations for this?

Size of the heat pump was calculated by the construction company with "sufficient safety" upwards ... I don't know more.

Buffer tank only the integrated 180 liters, no external one
Single room controller completely throughout the house
Hot water is set to 52 degrees.

So I should rather worry about the 12,800 compressor impulses - how can this be optimized?

Regarding the meter, I need to take action soon. Any recommendations?

Compared to the operating time, the number of starts is far too high, the other values actually look okay. I solved the problem of many starts (which I had at the beginning) simply by increasing the hysteresis at the heating flow, which was set quite low from the factory and caused the heat pump to cycle a lot. Raising it by 1.5K made a huge difference there. The storage location of the heat is the screed anyway, so it made no difference at all to the room temperature (constant), but since then the heating runs longer cycles.

If the heating engineer has calculated with performance reserves, then your heat pump will remain a strongly cycling heat pump. A heat pump is not calculated with reserves. That is outdated thinking.

You don't have many options there.
Is there a hydraulic balancing?
But ultimately, it is currently the wrong season. Only in autumn will you have small optimization possibilities again.

It does not matter who the heat pump is from.
It is always the same issue

- oversizing of the heat pump
- individual room controllers that are heavily throttled
- buffer storage
- a too large heating curve (to make it hot)
......

@Mastermind, it is no use to complain now about things that did not happen here (single room, buffer storage, etc.), because that does not contribute to the solution. This is not a general complaining session. My heat pump is also slightly too large, but one size smaller would have been bad for me because of the hot water (the smaller one would have had about 4KW capacity, and even heating a 180l tank takes too long), and you can store huge amounts of energy in the screed/house, so the first solution approach here is to change the hysteresis so that the cycles of the heat pump become directly longer. Then there is usually enough energy in the screed so that it takes a long time until the return temperature measured by the heat pump is cold enough for the next cycle to begin. Similar with the hot water tank, but I suspect that the many cycles mainly come from heating.

That has nothing to do with complaining. These are simple facts.

But it doesn’t change anything:
Wrong season
Wrong forum
Separate heat pump meter necessary
To deactivate the ERRs, pipe lengths or the data from the hydraulic balancing (which is now mandatory) are necessary.
.
And the mentioned hysteresis is an approach, but not the symptomatically correct procedure.

The hot water should also be looked at:
Is there circulation?
Are there hot water times?
How large is the hot water storage tank? Or which type is used?
How high is the hot water storage temperature set?

First, it is important
to achieve the balancing with the lowest possible supply temperature, and that without individual room controllers which only confuse the hydraulics. The goal is to achieve the highest possible flow rate so that the heat pump can run for a long time. That means: it is counterproductive to think you are saving something by turning certain rooms down... The exact opposite happens as a result....

The hysteresis is then the next step...

Then check the hot water issue.

And make sure a separate meter is installed for the heat pump. That does not cost the world. Only then can you get reliable data to see whether the optimization attempts have a positive effect at all.

With that, you can relate the produced heat quantity to the electricity needed for it, and thus determine the seasonal performance factor. A brine heat pump should achieve at least 4+.

You can also claim this as a craftsman’s invoice for 20% of the services in the next income tax declaration....

@Mastermind, it’s no use now to complain about things that didn’t happen here (individual room, buffer tank, etc) because that doesn’t contribute to the solution. This is not a general whining session.
My heat pump is also slightly oversized, but one size smaller would have been bad for me because of hot water (the smaller would have had about 4KW output, and heating a 180l tank would take too long), and you can store huge amounts of energy in the screed/house, so the first solution approach here is to change the hysteresis so that the switching cycles of the heat pump last longer directly. Then, usually, there is enough energy stored in the screed so that it takes a long time until the return temperature measured by the heat pump is cold enough for the next cycle to begin. Similar with the hot water tank, but I suspect that the many cycles are mainly caused by heating.

:
I have just looked up comparison values:
For just under 4 years: 6600 kWh electricity consumption for:
According to the heat pump, 42 MWh energy (16.2 WW + 25.8 heating)
With a runtime of 4545 hours and under 6000 compressor starts.