Planning kitchen appliances. How to proceed. Market is not clear

I don’t understand the problems either, but – I have to admit – I also have a 90 cm induction cooktop with 11 kW / 5 cooking zones. So the size should be right for me, but I’m not entirely sure about the connection rating. However, the individual cooking zones deliver 3200 and 3700 watts (middle) with the boost function, so you can see that even 3x boost is the maximum and there isn’t much left for the other two zones. I really only used the boost on two zones occasionally, for example when you have several pots with a lot of hot water; otherwise – especially for pans – that’s really just too much (unless you have completely unsuitable pans/pots that only heat up slowly even then, but then you should change them, not the stove). The pans heat up so quickly, even a few levels lower, that you don’t have the meat ready to fry that fast – so odors are no problem with reasonably organized cooking. I can hardly imagine a stronger boost function because here the power/heat at the bottom of the pot is so high that the water practically boils immediately and can’t circulate any faster, so more power would only cause problems. Otherwise, I have to say that the cooktop electronics cool quite well for me, because you can draw almost full power for quite some time, at least long enough until everything is boiling and you have to turn it down anyway. That apparently is no problem (referring to the post about the 7.5 kW stove).

I apologize. My comment was inappropriate and arrogant.

Not many do that, respect. For me, that's settled.

because the effect occurs the same way with aluminum, and primarily depends on the frequency. So it has to do with the cooktop being high-frequency modulated.

Yes. But aluminum cannot generate an asymmetry of the excitation field due to the lack of magnetism, which would shift the field more toward the pot. And thermal effects from hysteresis are also absent. It is simply not a suitable material for the functional requirement of an induction stove.

No, a pan with a "good" base leads to a higher utilization of the cooktop at the same level. I can gladly demonstrate this with a measurement over the weekend.

I assume you really can, so: reasoning? My knowledge of electrical engineering is only basic—I have simply considered an induction cooktop to date as a transformer, with the excitation coil as the primary and the pot/pan as the secondary coil without a load.

And it certainly makes a difference whether I operate a 26cm pot with a lid, or sear sharply for several minutes with a lot of contents in a 40cm pan.

The difference IN the cookware is without a doubt; on the same plate, both already don’t receive the same magnetic field due to their different base areas. But the heat content due to a lid or the amount of food certainly has no influence on the power in kW that the stove outputs. Only on the total energy in kWh.

One thing remains my opinion despite this clarification: That you can (or even have to) work for several minutes on boost with a pan on one plate strikes me as strange because it contradicts my experience. I still see no fundamental necessity for this. But in the end, it’s a matter of taste to me, and there is no arguing about tastes.

I would also be very interested in how much power a cooktop draws on "Boost". As described a few days ago, I rather assume that this is significantly less than the max. power according to the datasheet. I do have a Fluke clamp meter, but no suitable measuring point for the individual conductor, otherwise I would do it myself. If you measure it, let us know.

I assume that you really can do that, so: justification? For me, electrical engineering is only basic knowledge – until now, I have simply considered an induction cooktop as a transformer, with the excitation coil as the primary and the pot/pan as the secondary coil without a load.

Law of conservation of energy. If the energy is not converted into heat (aluminum), it simply isn’t converted at all, so no current or only a smaller current flows. The same happens with current in a transformer without a load in the secondary circuit – namely nothing.

I would also be very interested in how much power a cooktop consumes on "Boost". As I described a few days ago, I tend to assume that this is significantly less than the maximum power according to the datasheet. I do have a Fluke current clamp, but no suitable measuring point for the individual conductor, otherwise I would do it myself. If you measure it, let us know.

Calculate it with a thermometer and a defined amount of water. Heat the water from the starting temperature to 95 degrees and stop the time. Then you can calculate the amount of energy that has "arrived in the water".

You cannot compare the power section of an induction cooktop with a transformer. It is an oscillating circuit or a resonance converter. The IGBTs only supply the amount of energy taken from the oscillating circuit. When a pan is on the hob, the oscillating circuit is damped, causing the power to be supplied to increase.