Planning kitchen appliances. How to proceed. Market is not clear

2017-11-27 08:21:24

And how is it with multiple occupancy of plates? At which level is there a limit? And does this depend on the type of pans and pots?

I can only confirm your observations.

Something is not right here in my opinion.

With me, when using two times Boost, the rest is regulated to a maximum of 9. The boost of the large roaster field can be concentrated on half. The power of the distributed setting can't quite keep up with the pot plates.

I don't dare to use cast iron on Boost at all. Even the seasoning went on 9. Coated pans can be "decoated" within minutes with Boost :/ .

2017-11-27 08:34:17

Same for me (despite 11kw). I use all my cast iron pans at a maximum of level 7. The coated aluminum pan (of course with an iron core) can sometimes handle a 9 for heating up, but you have to stand by and turn it down quickly - which I hardly ever do... Boost only makes sense for me when boiling water.

2017-11-27 08:38:53

You have to be careful with cast iron pans that the pan is not larger than the induction hob. Otherwise, the heating is too concentrated on one spot, and the pans can warp.

With me, the "sister plate" switches back to 7 when the boost is active. As mentioned, you can fry very well with iron on 7, and pasta with a lid needs a 3-4 to continue simmering. So in practice, this limitation is totally irrelevant.

2017-11-27 14:44:31

Not enough connection power? With a pan of the same dimension, the coating flies off after 2.5 minutes with me (there was a small accident when a package courier rang the doorbell). And when I have the cast iron "several" minutes on "only" 9, the fat smokes like crazy. I don't even dare to use boost. The steak then turns into coal.

But this is satire now, right?
Your stove generates different power in the excitation field at the same level on the same burner depending on the cookware?
That your stove is supposed to limit different cookware on different burners at various levels has zero to do with power, if that’s true. Then you have another problem.
That your induction stove even heats up aluminum at all is strongly doubted by the laws of physics. Whether cheap or expensive doesn’t matter.

Check if you don’t have a ceramic hob...

Where exactly does the boost consume 3.2/3.6 = approx. 89% of a power circuit?

I believe by now that your current stove is not behaving as it should (or could), judging from the stories you’re telling here.

From practical experience with a "crappy" 7.5 kW one, I can report quite differently.
And no induction stove in the world works with aluminum. At least steel or iron is worked into the base. If not, and it still works, then it is not an induction stove.

Seriously? Do you have to mention that induction-compatible aluminum pans don’t have a pure aluminum base?

Yes, I have a ceramic hob. But what does the glass ceramic plate have to do with the function of the technology? Have you ever seen an induction cooktop without glass ceramic? The thermal conductivity is simply very low, which is why it is ideal for cooktops. And didn’t you see the photo I attached? Doesn’t that look like an induction cooktop?

Take a look at a few data sheets; you will see that the boost is almost always specified at over 3 kW.

And of course, it depends on the construction of the pot base.
The induced voltage is caused by the temporal change of the magnetic field. How large the induced power is depends on the resistance in the potential gradient of the pot base. And thus also the input of thermal energy.

2017-11-27 14:59:30

And BTW: every induction cooktop "works" with aluminum. It just does not allow automatic pot detection. Aluminum has good electrical conductivity, which is why it would heat up weakly (and thus also draw little power, which brings us back to the topic..)

2017-11-27 15:19:54

Well. The fact is that something cannot be quite right with your cooktop or your cookware based on your description. The only thing that has been attempted is to explore possible causes for the symptoms you described.

The electrical conductivity of the cookware is only of secondary importance. If anything, a lower conductivity is naturally better. Without magnetizable material in the pot, however, the cookware does not have its own "magnetic" field. Current can then only flow in the magnetic field of the stove coil. That certainly works poorly or not at all, depending on how the magnetic field is shaped; it rarely or never fully touches the bottom of the pot. And then these are only extensions of the field.

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Planning kitchen appliances. How to proceed. Market is not clear

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