Planning kitchen appliances. How to proceed. Market is not clear

And now please show me a cooktop with 7,xx kW, with 5 zones usable simultaneously. I'm curious.

You can take any one, it applies to all. Assuming it is true that one power unit serves 3 cooking zones, those are probably the smaller ones that only have 1.5 kW anyway. Then you can still cook 2x at full power, and 2x on the other side. Sketch a scenario where that is not enough.

Show me a cook who works on 5 cooking zones with 11 kW. Show me a cooktop that does not throttle due to overheating. Even at lower power levels over a longer time, the electronics get blazing hot and the fan runs at full speed, at least that’s how I know it from my old 90s Bosch ceramic hob.

There is nothing more to add to what Knallkörper says.

My cooktop with 7.5kW can do that. All burners at 9 or on both power zones each one on boost + the rest at 9. Set up with 5 fully loaded pots/pans. It works. But not permanently. Because with so much occupied surface, the heat dissipation is insufficient and the thermal protection throttles down. The same happens with 11 kW, possibly even earlier because heat is generated faster. The statement that I could not use full power with 5 pots is simply incorrect. I can only use the boost function less simultaneously - that is correct.

So, and now I’m being told here that I DO NOT need this. Very interesting. Here I should have already recognized that someone just wants to push their own opinion.

You WANT that, I do not deny it. The utility for a fully loaded stove still tends towards zero, for physical reasons. So yes, I deny the NEED for it. Does a stove have other quality features besides utility, usability, and safety (and possibly appearance)? I will leave aside the hypothetical situation where everything is fully prepared and then suddenly you want to heat 5 pots quickly - in such a scenario, I stand by my statement that then it’s not the stove’s fault.

Regardless of all this, it is important to ensure the appropriate connection power is delivered to the stove, otherwise the dispute over a few kW is about nothing. You need three phases, each delivering almost 16A. This must be taken into account in planning. The stoves also run with less but then do not reach their optimum.

I have an AEG (60cm, 4 zones) induction hob. The boost always throttles a second zone, which then only goes up to 7 (scale 1-9 + boost with intermediate levels). The boost is really only interesting for heating water. Quickly warming sauce from cold to warm with it carries a very high risk of burning. This boost really packs a punch. Almost all pans can be slightly ruined by boost. Iron/cast iron can warp due to strong overheating, coated pans scorch. We fry at 7, maximum 8. With boost, you only get smoke from fat until it burns.

With a large pan, I can easily stay on Boost for several minutes. With my favorite (40cm, 31.5cm base), there's hardly any action below level 8 anyway.

Also, Boost doesn't automatically mean that the cooktop delivers maximum power. With cheap aluminum pans, I can also run Boost + level 8. With appropriate cookware, significantly more power can be applied. Then, the second plate is inactive. It's relatively simple math... 3.2 kW Boost, 3.6 kW Max... leaving 400 W. A cooktop is not a perpetual motion machine, and doesn't magically add another 1000W.

And if the heat dissipation is not right, I would first check the installation situation. Although I often load the cooktop heavily, the fan rarely runs at its highest level. The cooktop actively dissipates heat via heat sinks. If the installation situation doesn't allow for heat dissipation, it will soon be over. I attached a picture of my (old) cooktop. The left side is the front. The fan draws air from below and expels it at the front of the cooktop. Here, 1. there must be enough space to the countertop (preferably also beveled), 2. the air must also get out of the cabinet, otherwise you quickly have a sauna.

With a large pan, I can easily stay on boost for several minutes. With my favorite (40cm, 31.5cm bottom), there's hardly anything happening below level 8 anyway.

Not enough connection power? With a pan of the same size, the coating peels off after 2.5 minutes for me (there was a small accident once when a delivery person rang the bell). And if I have the cast iron "several" minutes on "only" 9, the fat smokes like crazy. I don't dare use boost there at all. The steak then turns into coal.

Besides, boost doesn't automatically mean that the cooktop is delivering maximum power. With cheap aluminum pans, I can also run boost + level 8. With appropriate cookware, much more power goes in. Then the second plate has nothing going on. It's relatively simple math.. 3.2 kW boost, 3.6 kW max.. that leaves 400 W. A cooktop is not a perpetual motion machine and doesn't magically add another 1000W.

But that is satire now, right? Your stove produces the excitation field at different power levels at the same level on the same plate, depending on the cookware used? That your stove is supposed to limit power with different cookware on different plates at different levels has zero to do with power, if that's true. Then you have a different problem. That your induction stove even heats up aluminum is strongly doubted by the laws of physics. Whether cheap or expensive makes no difference there.

Check if you don't have a ceramic hob...

Where exactly does the boost consume 3.2/3.6 = approx. 89% of a power circuit?

By now, I believe your current stove does not behave as it should (or could), judging by the stories you tell here.

I can report quite differently from practice with a "measly" 7.5 kW model. And no induction stove in the world works with aluminum. At least steel or iron is worked into it. If not and it still works, it is not an induction stove.

What Daniel writes I cannot understand that way. I have an iron pan, hammer-forged, and for example a cast roaster from Creuset. They perform like nothing else.