Planning kitchen appliances. How to proceed. Market is not clear

Well. The fact is that according to your description something cannot be quite right with your cooktop or your cookware. It was merely attempted to determine causes for the symptoms you described.

The electrical conductivity of the cookware is only of secondary importance. If anything, a lower conductivity is of course better. However, without magnetizable material in the pot, the cookware does not have its own "magnetic field." Current can then only flow in the magnetic field of the stove coil. That certainly works poorly to not at all, depending on how the magnetic field is shaped, it rarely or never fully hits the pot bottom. And then it's only fringes of the field.

My goodness! I'm out! This should just be left as it is. This is what happens when laymen with half-knowledge believe they know how an induction cooktop works.

A low resistance in the pot bottom is NOT better, because a low resistance produces little waste heat!

And almost ALL defective induction cooktops that have come to me had a defective power section. Only one had damage on the power supply board.
And with three power sections, each power section is less loaded with the same cooking behavior. The IGBTs are happy about that, as they very much like to fail under high load. Especially with my large pan.. the power section is almost always at its limit, even if the second pot is only on a low setting.

If anything, a lower conductivity is of course better.

A low resistance in the pot bottom is NOT better,...

You agree, you just don't know it yet!

Well, I can already distinguish the units Siemens and Ohm

Now the OP comes along with stories from his cooktop workshop, and I can't keep up with my "half-knowledge."

Yes, I have a ceramic hob. But what does the glass-ceramic plate have to do with the function of the technology?

Colloquially, glass-surface stoves with heating coils are simply called "ceramic hobs."

Really now? Do you have to mention that induction-compatible aluminum pans don’t have a pure aluminum base?

Not really. But your description was quite odd, and that caught the eye.

And of course, it depends on the construction of the pot base. The induced voltage is caused by the temporal change of the magnetic field. How large the induced power is depends on the resistance in the potential gradient of the pot base. And thus also the thermal energy input.

The pot base is not a classic electrical consumer that transports current to equalize potential. The high resistance comes from the small "conductor cross-section" for the induced eddy currents because only the outermost layer of the pot base contains them (skin effect).

The coil in the stove must still absorb power according to its level – but the efficiency of converting this power into heat depends on the pot material and size.

You agree, you just don’t know it yet!

Funny thing. Whoever thinks others are laymen simply doesn’t read properly...

The core question, why on a professional’s stove at least one pan has to stand on boost for several minutes to "get going," remains unanswered. When I do that, the pan ends up hot & wrecked. Does that come from the unprofessional layman boost?

Far from physics, the described behavior on daniel's cooktop is incomprehensible.

I apologize. My comment was inappropriate and arrogant.

The thing with the skin effect is correct, but it still depends on the material, because the effect also occurs with aluminum, and is primarily dependent on the frequency. So it has to do with the fact that the cooktop is modulated at high frequency.

No, a pan with a "good" bottom leads to a higher utilization of the cooktop at the same level. I can gladly demonstrate this with a measurement over the weekend. And surely it makes a difference whether I operate a 26cm pot with a lid, or fry something sharply for a few minutes in a 40cm pan with a lot of contents.