Building with a small budget feasible?

It's true that needs are different and underfloor heating is not ideal for everyone. However, in my experience, it often still comes down to old prejudices about cold feet, heat building up, etc. With the right settings, though, this has nothing to do with modern underfloor heating. What is indisputable is the inertia and the stove problem. With the stove, you have to pay attention to certain things. You can hardly get rid of the inertia.

It's true that needs are different and underfloor heating is not ideal for everyone. However, in my experience, it often comes down to old prejudices about thick feet, accumulating heat, etc. With proper settings, this has nothing to do with modern underfloor heating. What is indisputable is the inertia and the stove problem. You have to pay attention to certain things with the stove. The inertia is practically impossible to get rid of.

There is again a lot of hearsay being passed around, so little real knowledge is conveyed. An underfloor heating system, when operated with low flow temperature and small hysteresis, is definitely not noticeably warm. We had 22.5 degrees all winter (without sunlight) on the ground floor and the floor was neutral despite tiles. I have been working for 2 months with a daily increase of the underfloor heating so that the hysteresis is high, then the floor gets warm, that’s true. But as I said, this setting is wrong because I have to use the power from the photovoltaic system for this. It also only has a limited connection to being modern. Poorly insulated building envelopes require a high flow temperature and with that the floor is warm again. But most of the time, heating systems are just poorly adjusted and since the builder has no clue, these settings remain unchanged for years. I only lowered the flow temperature by 5 degrees and properly adjusted the heating system in the second year. One of my neighbors hasn’t done anything even in the fifth year. Regarding the stove, yes we have a 7.2 kW stove and I have never had to ventilate while running it together with the underfloor heating. That may be because of the open ground floor and open staircase, but my suspicion is that the room-air-independent two-flue chimneys blow most of the heat back outside. It’s simply not like it used to be, because where air is drawn from the room, more heat can also be lost again. We operated the stove continuously from 5 a.m. to 10 p.m. Max temperature was 26.8 degrees. Those who operate ERR cannot optimize their heating and naturally also have problems with the stove because they close the heating circuits. But that’s another topic and there is another thread for that.

Zaba, what you say cannot be generalized: 1) I claim that the majority of people do not want to deal with a heating system technically. Neither do I. It should work and that's it. Otherwise, it would be the wrong one for us. 2) Stove, what most people want is the Scandinavian stove. It heats. And how. That does not fit with the FHZ.

Zaba, what you say cannot be generalized: 1) I claim that the majority of people do not want to deal with a heating system technically. I don't either. It should just work, and that’s it. Otherwise, it would be the wrong one for us. 2) Stove, what most people want is the Scandinavian stove. It heats. And how. That doesn’t fit with the heat pump.

Otherwise, I might as well conjure up the fire virtually instead of burning real wood just for the look.

One of my neighbors still hasn’t done anything in the 5th year.

Never change a running system :)

Zaba, what you say cannot be generalized: 1) I claim that the majority of people do not want to deal with a heating system technically. Neither do I. It should just run and be fine. Otherwise, it would be the wrong one for us. 2) Stove, what most people want is the Scandinavian stove. It heats. And how. That does not fit with the FHZ.

Regarding 1) Yes, I agree with you. You only deal with it when the compressor gives up after 10 years and then they write that heat pumps are rubbish because they were too stupid to understand the heating system. No heating engineer adjusts the heating system. It is always set and installed with the standard setting, in the worst case even with a domestic hot water buffer. Believe me... the standard setting including ERR is a big mess.

Regarding 2) It only doesn't fit if you use ERR because the heating system is not optimized.

To clarify again, everyone who uses ERR has the heating curve set too high. I used to think so until last autumn as well; they think that by using the regulator from 18-30 degrees in the room, they can control the heat. Which is a big mistake, because if you set 24 degrees, the heating system still heats the water for the underfloor heating, for example, to the set 36 degrees, and that is why the feet get warm.