Christian 65
2022-10-02 20:33:16
- #1
One more brief remark about the numbers, which are again not completely accurate:
The calculation is flawed in that you shouldn't use room temperature, but rather the surface temperature of the heating element. And that is about 32 degrees versus 8 degrees = 24 Kelvin for underfloor heating, and 43 degrees versus -5 degrees = 48 degrees for window heating, whereby with an outdoor temperature of -5 degrees you should probably assume 50 degrees.
That shifts the result a bit again.
I would also like to add my two cents regarding the system technology.
To avoid having to keep additional system technology with window heating, only instantaneous water heaters remain.
If bathrooms are located on different floors, they should be electrically interlocked.
Well, it’s not a big deal, but it should be considered.
Electric instantaneous water heaters are no longer worthwhile with high water volumes; I wouldn’t necessarily want to equip a household of 4 people with long-term showerers with one.
No matter how cold it is outside, in Germany heat pumps achieve at least a COP of 1.8 on 330 days a year.
Since a heat pump becomes less efficient the higher the heating water temperature is, it would be smart to operate the heat pump continuously with a flow temperature of 35 degrees. Through the buffer tank with primary/secondary circuit, the fresh water is then warmed in flow-through mode to exactly 35 degrees and, if necessary, then supplied to the instantaneous water heater, which realizes the marginal temperature increase to 45 degrees.
This way I keep the instantaneous water heater’s power demand within limits, have no problems with legionella, and do not have to maintain a temperature of 60 degrees as with a domestic hot water storage tank.
Why do I explain this so extensively? Because with a heat pump these components are already available through the heating technology. The investment in a domestic hot water heat pump combined with window heating disproportionately increases the primary costs. And in winter, if it is supposed to produce hot water alone, it is no longer efficient.
I would really appreciate a sober, mathematically correct consideration including all side effects, in order to be able to formulate a real decision aid for the technically knowledgeable homebuyer.
There are certainly arguments that could make this technology appealing.
But then please also comprehensible and without false promises.
I only say: comfort, heat veil, lack of inertia, ease of maintenance, system technology, retrofittability, water feel, delivery time, manufacturing process etc.
Consumption is simply not one of them.
But there’s always something.
Regards, Christian
The calculation is flawed in that you shouldn't use room temperature, but rather the surface temperature of the heating element. And that is about 32 degrees versus 8 degrees = 24 Kelvin for underfloor heating, and 43 degrees versus -5 degrees = 48 degrees for window heating, whereby with an outdoor temperature of -5 degrees you should probably assume 50 degrees.
That shifts the result a bit again.
I would also like to add my two cents regarding the system technology.
To avoid having to keep additional system technology with window heating, only instantaneous water heaters remain.
If bathrooms are located on different floors, they should be electrically interlocked.
Well, it’s not a big deal, but it should be considered.
Electric instantaneous water heaters are no longer worthwhile with high water volumes; I wouldn’t necessarily want to equip a household of 4 people with long-term showerers with one.
No matter how cold it is outside, in Germany heat pumps achieve at least a COP of 1.8 on 330 days a year.
Since a heat pump becomes less efficient the higher the heating water temperature is, it would be smart to operate the heat pump continuously with a flow temperature of 35 degrees. Through the buffer tank with primary/secondary circuit, the fresh water is then warmed in flow-through mode to exactly 35 degrees and, if necessary, then supplied to the instantaneous water heater, which realizes the marginal temperature increase to 45 degrees.
This way I keep the instantaneous water heater’s power demand within limits, have no problems with legionella, and do not have to maintain a temperature of 60 degrees as with a domestic hot water storage tank.
Why do I explain this so extensively? Because with a heat pump these components are already available through the heating technology. The investment in a domestic hot water heat pump combined with window heating disproportionately increases the primary costs. And in winter, if it is supposed to produce hot water alone, it is no longer efficient.
I would really appreciate a sober, mathematically correct consideration including all side effects, in order to be able to formulate a real decision aid for the technically knowledgeable homebuyer.
There are certainly arguments that could make this technology appealing.
But then please also comprehensible and without false promises.
I only say: comfort, heat veil, lack of inertia, ease of maintenance, system technology, retrofittability, water feel, delivery time, manufacturing process etc.
Consumption is simply not one of them.
But there’s always something.
Regards, Christian