Heat pumps require a lot of energy and make noise

When the Bosch technician was here for installation, he also said I should set all thermostats to 30 and see if the flow temperature is sufficient.

This is the opinion that is now being advocated. Turn all ERRs completely on or leave them fully open and regulate the temperatures via the heating system. I would turn ALL ERRs completely on. Set the flow rate on the HKVs as calculated – that is, as intended in the hydraulic balancing. Then carry out the thermal balancing. That means adjusting so that all rooms end up having the temperature you want without you having to touch the ERRs.

But I feel like that is a waste again since the bedroom is set to 18 degrees, the living room to 21 degrees, and the kids’ room recently again to 22 degrees according to the standard (when laying the underfloor heating for spacing reasons). Then the unused kids’ room would always get more than necessary?

You can adjust that for the kids’ room then. But waste? No, you still haven’t understood. If you don’t sufficiently heat the kids’ room, then the surrounding rooms will heat the kids’ room. You will always consume the energy, just in another place. 18 degrees bedroom and 22 degrees kids’ room is per se already problematic – keyword refrigerator or thermos flask. The temperatures will equalize; you won’t achieve large differences in a new building.

Read up on balancing first, otherwise this will get lost again in the small details.

That also helps a lot. You can find a lot about it here in the forum too.

Hydraulic balancing for the whole house. However, the boss of the heating company did not set it according to any list or anything else. The meters on the pipe are noted for each circuit. Based on these meters, he then set between 0.8 and 2.0 L. 0.8 at 60 meters, 1.5 at 120 meters. So everything is very inaccurate in my opinion.

very inaccurate and approximate.

More precise looks like this, for example:

But isn't it the case that if I open all the ERR, the pump constantly tries to reach the temperature and wants to "step on the gas" all the time, but can't manage it? On the device itself, there is either an optimized temperature or an automatic mode that lowers it by a few degrees at night. Currently, the optimized temperature is set to 22 degrees, is that connected somehow?

But isn't it the case that if I open all ERRs, the pump constantly tries to reach the temperature and always wants to "give gas," but doesn't manage to?

Why should the heat pump not manage it? It does the same as now – heating. But it doesn't have to work at full throttle anymore because you want to heat a 140 sqm house (no idea how the areas are) with 80 sqm. As a comparison: If an 8-cylinder engine in a 3-ton car in economy mode only has 4 cylinders running, the engine has to work at full throttle. With 8 cylinders, it runs comfortably at low power. Even with less consumption, actually.

On the device

What device?

either an optimized temperature or an automatic mode, where it lowers the temperature by a few degrees at night.

You no longer do night setback with a heat pump. That comes from the time of oil and gas.

At the moment, the optimized temperature is set to 22 degrees, is that somehow related?

No idea what an optimized temperature is. On mine – and many other heat pumps – you control via the outdoor temperature and the heating curve. Where is the optimized temperature measured anyway? Hopefully in the children's room, which is not heated... :rolleyes:

But isn't it the case that if I open all ERR, the pump constantly tries to reach the temperature and always wants to "step on the gas," but doesn't manage to?

Why do you assume that the "pump" does not reach the target temperature of 22°? If enough energy is supplied to your house from outside (and you do not constantly throw windows and doors open in winter), this energy remains inside (is retained), and you only have to supply again the ventilated or otherwise lost (no insulation is perfect) delta. P.S. Regarding the different room temperatures, the first law of thermodynamics applies (in a closed "internal" system, no energy is lost). From additional laws, one can infer that temperatures equalize in this closed system. Small differences (delta) can occur temporarily. Large ones cannot; for that a floor heating is a) generally too sluggish and b) the interior walls are not sufficiently insulated against each other.)

At the device itself, there is either an optimized temperature or an automatic mode, in which it lowers the temperature a few degrees at night. Currently, the optimized temperature is set to 22 degrees, is that related somehow?

Night setback makes no sense in modern houses. It only makes sense in leaky or poorly insulated old houses. Many installers do not set heat pumps correctly. I had the factory service come. The first action was to reprogram the heating element out :cool: and to limit the maximum temperature. Since then (a good 2 years) the heat pump has been running flawlessly without me having to intervene much (I only raised the max temperature by 1° in winter). But we still have insufficient information from you. What standard does your house have, which heat pump (exactly)? Pictures of the HKV? P.P.S: I left it open for 45 minutes without sending and already someone interjected ;/

I do not base it on 22 degrees, but on the 30 degrees at the thermostat in the different rooms. My thought was that the compressor then continuously tries to reach 30 degrees, which is not possible with this heating curve. Or is the "optimized temperature" that can be set on the device the specification or the maximum up to which the machine heats? If this is the case, where is the temperature measured? At the device itself? So in the technical room, where it is usually cooler anyway? Compress 6800i AW from Bosch is the heat pump. It is only a Kfw 55 standard with 36 bricks without additional insulation. So no greenhouse. The auxiliary heater is permanently off. Heating curve at 28 base point and 35 end point. Max. 45 degrees flow temperature. The noise definitely comes from the radiator valve and sounds like a radiator in my parents' house when the water flows through there.