Floor plan planning single-family house 180m2 south access - chaotic floor plans

The bicycle and garbage garage will not be covered.

But that is not so good for the bicycles. And the remark was also aimed at checking whether a workshop as an enclosed building is even allowed on the property line. The relief (well) through the bay window extension and, on the other hand, the flat roof covering of the uncovered ground floor part are then again cost drivers. And, have you already received an elevation of this bay window extension? What exactly is the benefit of the entrance canopy?

Our house is part of a larger construction project with apartment buildings, semi-detached houses, and single-family houses. The plots are sold by the construction company on the condition that you also build with them. The architect's fees are included in the costs. Therefore, another architect is basically out of the question, unless we go to another one and pay again. The architect has been working for the construction company for many years.

Then pray, and strengthen the support by an expert. And what I always say: botched jobs that the planner foresees will also be executed by the mason.

What do you mean by the forced second full floor? According to the development plan, the number of full floors is II

I meant a potentially forced setback floor by the development plan. If there is no reason for it here, I wouldn’t do it either.

House connection room quite far away from the street, does that fit with the supply lines? Upper floor, why on the one hand not fully utilizing the ground floor area, but then this bay window overbuild?

It fits, but it only makes it unnecessarily expensive. I wouldn’t do it that way. The shading bay over the west terrace could make sense if it were a south terrace . I would iron out both the shading bay and the ground floor undercut at the entrance here. Forget the laymen’s fears about a boring building shape. That’s the only thing the plasterer really removes! Then I would also dissolve the setback floor and make the ground floor equal in size to the upper floor. I would split the house connection and technical room (house penetrations in the south of the ground floor, for example in the pantry, and the technical room upstairs, possibly hidden behind one of the bathrooms). The staircase manages itself automatically if the ground floor is professionally derived from the upper floor. And free yourselves from the south obsession. That is the lay planner’s (and floor plan devil’s) favorite; exorcise it. One last small tip from the former window guy: also eliminate the redundancy of the lift-and-slide doors. For God’s sake, take only one if it doesn’t bother you that they will be retro in ten years. Replace it in the seating area with a single-leaf door in an otherwise fixed element.

The terrace in the west is just as unprotected as the one to the south facing the street. It will be permanently very loud. I lived for many years on such a street with the same problem. In the end, we always went inside because it was too annoying. If you really want some noise protection, in my opinion, the only way is to place the house as a "sound barrier" between the street and the terrace.

Also, you have the problem in the west that your terrace is next to the neighbor's garage wall, which completely blocks the low-standing western sun. The problem is best solved, in my opinion, by building the house as a crossbar to the street and separating the terrace from the house and moving it far enough to the north so that the shadow of the house doesn't matter. For example, with a nice pavilion or something similar.

Hey Katja, thank you very much for your detailed feedback. We currently have a small part of our garden in the north and we don’t get any sun there during the day. We don’t like that at all. We like it sunny and would accept the noise during peak times for that. Sitting in the west for that. We are very happy that we found this plot of this size in a small town. Unfortunately, it is not perfect. Somehow we have to make the best out of the placement.

But it's not so good for the bicycles. And the remark was also aimed at checking whether a workshop as a closed building is even allowed on the boundary.

The relief (well) through the bay window extension and on the other hand the flat roof covering of the non-built ground floor part are then again cost drivers.
And have you ever received a view of this bay window extension?

What exact benefit does the entrance canopy bring?

We will ask again about the canopy and the boundary development. Thank you!
Thanks also for the hint regarding the additional costs of the flat roof extension and the bay window.

Attached you will find the side views.

The entrance canopy should primarily serve as weather protection. We have often read that this should be done.

Hey 11ant, thanks for the tip about the expert! We will probably do that.

It fits, it just gets unnecessarily expensive. I wouldn’t do it that way. The shaded bay window above the west terrace could make sense if it were a south terrace were.

I would smooth out both the shaded bay window and the ground floor undercut at the entrance here. Forget the layman’s fears about a boring building shape. That’s the only thing the plasterer really removes!

We actually find a bay window nice. But we don’t know what extra costs they have. We want to keep the ground floor undercut for weather protection.

Then I would also dissolve the staggered floor and make the ground floor the same size as the first floor. I would split the house connection and technical room (house entries on the south side of the ground floor, for example in the pantry, and the technical room on the first floor, possibly hidden behind one of the bathrooms).

That’s a new approach – noted and will be discussed with the architect.

One more little tip from the former window guy: also eliminate the redundancy of the lift-and-slide doors. For God’s sake, take just one of them if it doesn’t bother you that they will be retro in ten years. Replace it in the seating area with a single-leaf door in an otherwise fixed element.

A fixed glazing is planned on the south side. If so, then as you say with a swing door. Our architect raved about HS doors.

Would you generally place the stairs with the hallway somewhere else? Maybe bring the main entrance forward. You have to walk so far to the front door. Different type of stairs (straight steps)?

We like it sunny and would therefore accept the noise during peak hours. Sitting in the west for that. We are very happy that we found this plot of land in this size in a small town. Unfortunately, it is not perfect. Somehow, we have to make the best out of the placement.

Ah, okay. But why not just completely in the south then? Regardless - if you absolutely want to sit next to the garage wall - the topic is exhausted for me. What I would still be interested in is the story height. Your platform staircase with a length of 3.46m is quite substantial. For a house of this size, it seems very dominant to me. Normally, a space requirement of about 3m with story heights of around 2.90m would be standard.