So the "very experienced" may be true, but then "not trained" probably applies as well. Because the installer's statement is simply completely wrong. Apparently, he has never glanced at the manual of any heat pump in his entire life. A pity for a professional.
As evidence, I have put the technical data from a brine heat pump manual (~4 years old, a model similar to mine) into a picture. I'm sure if you look at a current heat pump of your choice, you will surely find even better data by now. What can you read from it?
Up to a brine temperature of 0° at the input, the heat pump heats water up to 60° with a performance factor of 2.4, i.e. from 1kWh of electricity → about 2.4kWh of heat energy, and if you save a bit and only operate with a 55° warm storage, you can run with even colder brine or get better performance factors (my borehole has always remained in the positive range as input, even in winter rather +5 to +10°, but for the devices it is basically completely normal to work with negative brine temperatures, this is often the case with trench collectors → the icing provides a lot of energy).
My brine heat pump has not once gone into heating rod operation in the last 4 years. It can be as cold as it wants outside, the brine temperature was stable and the efficiencies good (at 0° brine, the heat pump is sufficient for us down to about -30°C outside temperature in terms of output).
So I can only agree with the previous speaker. Especially when it is very cold, the brine heat pump is advantageous compared to an air-water heat pump.
[Edit] The performance factors don't look that impressive yet, but at 0° outside temperature we have a flow temperature of about 25°, and at a brine temperature between 5 and 10 degrees you are already in the upper 6 range...