Build your own sauna with a sloping roof - suggestions/notes/plans

  • Erstellt am 2020-11-24 10:14:29

matte

2021-01-18 10:27:30
  • #1
Since I’m about to go to the glazier, I would like to have your assessment:

As mentioned before, I can save myself all the sealing lip stuff, right?
Then I would just make sure that the door hits the side with the window at about ~1-2mm. 5mm gap at the bottom. Also 1-2mm at the top. On the side with the door hinges, I would then have omitted possible seals as well.

Is that usual? The whole thing with the seals actually came from the glazier. However, I suspect that he doesn’t have much to do with saunas.
 

pagoni2020

2021-01-18 10:56:42
  • #2
Lay opinion mixed with some own, similar experience: I understand the necessity of tightness for a shower because of the risk of water leakage. I don’t see any risk with warm air. Even if some warm air escapes outside, it just makes it slightly warmer outside (or a loss inside), but it doesn’t cause any problem inside. It’s not like suction that pulls the hot air outside and thus would make it cold inside. Therefore, I would keep the gap as small as possible; the door hits something on that side anyway, right? It’s not that warm at the bottom anyway, I hadn’t considered that before. What are the alternatives? In my view, these gaps of 1-2mm pose no problems, nor does less than 5mm. Whether it’s common for purchased saunas, I don’t know, but for example, if someone briefly opens the door, far more warm air escapes than through a 1-2mm door gap. I only have a few photos and memories left of my previous sauna. In any case, the simple glass door used to hit against the wooden beam, o It might be because glass/windows generally always have to be watertight. But as said, that's a completely different matter. As I understand it, I would do it without these seals. Should the absolute worst-case scenario occur, which I currently can’t imagine, one can always add a seal/strip later, right? Without seals, and certainly some gap remained open or it wasn’t tightly closed.
 

matte

2021-01-18 11:04:27
  • #3
Thanks to you!

I have now also looked at Saunainter, as they also have such door/window combinations.
It even says in the assembly instructions there that you should leave 3-5mm of space between the door and the window.
It is also specified like that at the top.
I will follow that, so completely without seals.
 

pagoni2020

2021-01-18 11:09:26
  • #4

Ha, great. Then you even surpass their mediocre construction! I think I’ll have you build our sauna!!!
Have fun continuing the build.
 

matte

2021-01-18 11:51:54
  • #5
So, back again. Could have saved myself that :D
Gaskets are off the table, door hinges cost €75 each from him. If I want to get some from the internet, I can do that gladly.
He doesn’t have anything to offer for the handle anyway, because they are all made of metal, which gets too hot inside, so I’m supposed to get something from the net anyway.

He had a mix-up with the glass, it doesn’t have to be laminated safety glass [VSG], 8mm tempered safety glass [ESG] is enough. This makes everything a lot cheaper. Glass alone costs about €300, plus 1-2 hours of installation. I’m currently assuming a total of about €500.

So if anyone has a recommendation for a nice handle and door hinges, bring it on ;)
 

Nida35a

2021-01-18 12:15:31
  • #6
Straps and handles without manufacturer label, No Name, gaps on top and sides 1-2mm, handle outside stainless steel and inside wood
 

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