Single-family house 175 sqm without basement, too big?

  • Erstellt am 2020-04-15 10:02:49

Drasleona

2020-04-23 18:00:54
  • #1
Do I understand correctly that windows/walls/doors usually cannot be moved freely, but only in certain intervals, for example always 62.5? That would really limit you quite a bit.

By the way, I’m also happy to accept minor mistakes if you see any.
 

hausnrplus25

2020-04-23 18:13:29
  • #2
I don't know how it is with Schwabenhaus, but there are also prefabricated house manufacturers who don't have a grid dimension, but the statics decide how many wooden beams go into the wall!

First thought from my side:
Ground floor
- Living room window opposite the stairs (so on the left side of the plan in the middle) could maybe be moved a bit further up on the plan to better reach the hallway? Do you have an open or closed staircase? Otherwise maybe next to the front door a glass element/window/fixed glazing? Have you thought about that? You would have the space and then there would be daylight in the hallway and the wardrobe
- Why is the large window in the dining room so far on the corner?
- For the office I would check the windows again with opening direction/swing line (does anyone know what that is called in technical jargon)

Upper floor
- Is the gallery upstairs open or is it fixed glazing? So where is the parapet for the window?
- Bathroom window -> potentially move it a bit to the right on the plan, then you could install the washing machine/dryer stacked
 

11ant

2020-04-23 18:24:16
  • #3

About 30 years ago, the answer to that would have mostly been "yes," at least for exterior and load-bearing interior walls in a timber frame panel prefab house. Since then, manufacturing has become more flexible, and you can occasionally "swap out" the rhythm. However, as a construction orientation grid, it still makes sense to maintain such a structure today. The remaining manufacturers nowadays are all proud of "Made to Measure"; the inflexible ones have long since been sorted out by the market. So you don’t need to worry about that—but I still recommend inquiring about and considering the planning grid. The "further processing" professionals will rework your amateur plan faster than you’ve essentially "absorbed the system later with your mother’s milk."

I meant that any deviations I’ve seen so far are exclusively due to my "different taste." You have already observed essential basics (rectangular floor plan without risalits, bay windows, Frisian gables, atriums, and similar frills, and above all: not thirteen wishes per twelve square meters), so I see no obstacles to the happily realized Pareto optimum. A counter-design—that is, a guide to unhappiness—you can see "next door" at .
 

haydee

2020-04-23 18:36:38
  • #4
What are the dimensions of the staircase now?
How wide is the hallway next to the staircase?

How does [Schwabenhaus] solve it with the slope?
 

Drasleona

2020-04-23 18:37:21
  • #5
: thanks. I will take a look at Shiny86's topic, you can definitely learn a lot from it. I’ll leave the planning grid to the professionals, at least that’s what I gathered

: I’ll go through your points one by one:
- The window in the living room is positioned so that you can still place a larger sofa there. It annoys me a bit that it’s not exactly opposite the hallway... but I don’t want to ruin furnishing options because of that. Our stairs are going to be open. We would also like a light element next to the front door, but I was rather thinking of a solution integrated with the door. Or would you put a classic fixed-pane window there and the door next to it?
- The window is so close to the corner so that this "one big glass corner" is created. That was planned by the manufacturer and honestly, I didn’t question it further... Would you find it better if it were pulled apart?
- What do you mean about the office? It will have a double-wing window and I would like the right wing to be opened first, so there is no problem at the desk.
- The window in the gallery can be fully opened. But to be honest, I haven’t quite understood yet what the parapet height can be. I will ask about that again.
- Good idea about the bathroom window, I hadn’t thought of that, thanks!

The slope will be filled or a piece will be excavated at the top. The details are not yet clarified, so whether it will be terraced or not remains to be seen. I currently planned the stairs with 4.10m x 1m. At the top there is a distance to the wall of 1.20m (from which unfortunately a parapet still has to be deducted...) and at the bottom 1.40m.
 

11ant

2020-04-23 18:53:25
  • #6
Examples: You have room widths of overlapping rooms each on the ground floor/upper floor of 355/365, 299/291 or 429/427 and an external wall thickness of partly 28, partly 30 cm. Those are peanuts, they get refined away. In the discouraging example from Princess Perfectline, a downpipe at the ceiling passage suddenly deviates the path by about 60 cm, that is a completely different magnitude. Your walls basically stand nicely on top of each other, even if you haven't calculated it exactly.

Do you possibly mean the hinge direction? – I can't find any indication of that in the floor plans at all, and no indication in the elevations yet (?)

Was there a base model? If so, name it.

One with a sash instead of a mullion then. You have to specify on the order which is the "first" sash (as seen from inside).

The eaves sides are parallel to the stair axis, I "read" from the windows (?)
 

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