How can one circumvent the Energy Saving Ordinance and avoid bureaucratic madness?

  • Erstellt am 2017-07-08 19:26:56

Alex85

2017-07-11 15:59:06
  • #1
What exactly is supposed to be a natural stone? Do you mean "as if quarried from the mountain," essentially rock, or what is this supposed to be? Is, for example, a sand-lime brick a natural stone (it does occur in nature, but those used for construction are produced)? Or do you mean bricks, fired clay bricks?
 

Farilo

2017-07-11 15:59:26
  • #2

Hi Matte1987,

thanks. I will take a closer look at the calculation method right away.

Just a quick note beforehand.
So you are referring to an energy exchange and possibly a heat loss in winter.

Shouldn't one also consider where this lost heat actually comes from?
Just very generally said:
If this lost heat from the outside wall is provided by the sun anyway, why should I care much? It will come back tomorrow anyway. I didn’t pay for it.

It would of course be different if I had to pay for this heat! Then I would of course want to keep it INSIDE the house as much as possible.
But for free?

What am I doing wrong?

The heat loss H = A x Delta Temp x U-value of the component

A = area, for a 3m wide wall with a height of 2.5m that is 7.5m²
Delta Temp = 30 Kelvin at 20°C indoor temperature and -10°C outdoor temperature
The U-value of the component:

Old U-value = wall from an old building ~1.00 W/m²*K (can be a bit more or less)
New U-value = wall from a new building ~0.20 W/m²*K

Now the heat loss can be easily calculated:

Old wall:

H = 7.5m² x 30K x 1.00 W/m²*K = 225 Watts

To compensate for the heat loss of this one wall, so that the room does not cool down, I have to somehow supply a heat output of 225 Watts into the room.

New wall:

H = 7.5m² x 30K x 0.20 W/m²*K = 45 Watts

To prevent cooling in a new building, I only have to apply 1/5 of the energy compared to the above example.

That’s it on the subject that insulation is not worth it.

The best part of the whole thing:

If you don't want a thermal insulation composite system, then take a monolithic (one building material) masonry.
For example, we use a brick, a Poroton T8.
It has with 36.5cm thickness (which is the most common building method here in Bavaria) a U-value of 0.21 W/m²*K.

So the above example is by no means made up or hocus-pocus.

Anything other than this simple fact that an energy balance ALWAYS takes place only confuses you and is irrelevant here.[/QUOTE]
 

Musketier

2017-07-11 16:01:08
  • #3
related to winter:


if you heat, it is warm


cold


warm



cold
 

Lumpi_LE

2017-07-11 16:02:09
  • #4
As asked before, how do you come to the conclusion that the wall is cold in the morning and warm in the evening? If the sun shines on it, it might actually be slightly warmer in the evening. But that is so negligible that it can be ignored.
 

Lumpi_LE

2017-07-11 16:05:51
  • #5
If you do not operate a sauna, the walls on the outside are always cold. The difference is the interior wall temperature and the heat transfer..
 

Musketier

2017-07-11 16:07:57
  • #6
Uninsulated, the wall is somewhere between the indoor and outdoor temperature... so in winter warm relative to the outdoor temperature and cold relative to the indoor temperature.
 

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