How can one circumvent the Energy Saving Ordinance and avoid bureaucratic madness?

How do you come to that conclusion? Put a pot of warm water in the garden once in the morning and once in the evening and touch the outer wall. It surely won't be cooler at night than during the day...

The outside of the wall should always be cold in winter. With the thermal imaging camera, one is more likely to detect thermal bridges. For example, with Ytong walls, you can identify intermediate floors, even if the edges are insulated, because the (non-insulating) concrete rests on them and the house is not completely "wrapped" like, for example, with KS and Styrofoam.

Hi Peanut74, are you now talking about an exterior wall with or without significant insulation? Or just in general?

How do you come to that?
Place a pot with warm water in the garden once in the morning and once in the evening and touch the outer wall. It certainly won’t be cooler at night than during the day...

Well, I was referring to the assumption that a natural stone, for example, absorbs heat/cold (unlike an insulated wall) and then has to release it accordingly.

Or is that also completely wrong again? I thought we had already clarified that?

If I place a pot of water in the garden in summer at 35°, the water cools down more slowly than if I place that pot of water in the garden in winter at, for example, 5°.
The pot wall will then also adjust...

I don’t really understand this comparison at the moment.

The water doesn't cool down, does it, or do you heat once at the beginning of winter and then wait for spring? The comparison is obviously flawed... I just wanted to reply with something equally confusing..

Now, regardless of all the understanding regarding thermal imaging cameras, etc.:

As soon as there is a temperature difference (in Kelvin) between the inside and outside of a component (wall/door/window/etc.), energy exchange occurs.

This energy exchange – in our case in winter a heat loss – can be easily calculated:

The heat loss H = A x Delta Temp x U-value component

A = area, for a 3m wide wall with a height of 2.5m that is 7.5m²
Delta Temp = 30 Kelvin at 20°C indoor temperature and -10°C outdoor temperature
The U-value component:

U-value-old = wall from an old building ~ 1.00W/m²*K (can also be a bit more or less)
U-value-new = wall from a new building ~0.20W/m²*K

Now the heat loss can be easily calculated:

Old wall:

H = 7.5m² x 30K x 1.00W/m²*K = 225 Watts

To compensate the heat loss of this one wall, so that the room does not cool down, I somehow have to supply a heat output of 225 Watts into the room.

New wall:

H = 7.5m² x 30K x 0.20W/m²*K = 45 Watts

To prevent cooling down in a new building, I only have to expend 1/5 of the energy compared to the example above.

So much for the topic, insulation is not worthwhile.

The best thing about the whole matter:

If you don't want a thermal insulation composite system, then take a monolithic (one building material) masonry.
For example, we install a brick, a Poroton T8.
It has a U-value of 0.21W/m²*K at 36.5cm thickness (this is the most common construction method here in Bavaria).

The above example is therefore by no means made up or hocus pocus.

Anything other than this simple fact, that an energy balance ALWAYS takes place, only confuses you and is irrelevant here.

Just to briefly clarify the framework conditions so that we don't talk past each other.

Assumption:

Uninsulated/Natural stone - 06:00h - Exterior wall -> cold

Insulated - 06:00h - Exterior wall -> Zustand???
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Uninsulated/Natural stone - 20:00h - Exterior wall -> warm

Insulated - 20:00h - Exterior wall -> Zustand???