Oh dear, I’ll try to quote all the posts one by one, but first of all, many thanks for the tips:
The thing with the barrier-reduced granny flat that is suitable for needing care won’t fit into the 2 rooms.
Google “zero-barrier tiny house.” The house is 16 sqm, and I don’t find either bed or bathroom suitable as a permanent solution. Although I tip my hat that it works on that space. You might be able to implement one or the other gimmick or take it as an inspiration.
That is indeed worthy of tipping one’s hat, but there would still be the bathroom and hallway added – that’s still not huge or spacious, but also not 16 sqm. And it’s only about barrier-reduced at first, not fully barrier-free. Where it makes sense to go fully barrier-free right away, we would of course do that, but in case of doubt, there must be more room through fewer pieces of furniture if needed...
For Allkauf Haus, I found many houses with granny flats, but most have an entire floor for it – do you have a more precise tip?
Adding furniture and movement spaces is on the ToDO list; I have to get familiar with Vectorworks again first...
Actually, I find the budget good but Hamburg is naturally another bite. I fear you have to add 500 on top of the usual 3000 per sqm just for the Hamburg bonus. Plus the cellar at living height and the attic – 800K will definitely be tight. Demolition on top – then I would pull the ripcord and say, I think that won’t be enough. But we can’t know for sure. Everything is in flux right now.
The rough idea was 550k house (rather more), 100k cellar, 100k ancillary building costs, 50k demolition (rather less). The cellar in my opinion wouldn’t need to be at living height, for the attic I find your design in the “barn house” quite successful. It can also be “simple” regarding wiring, but heating/flooring/interior finish is of course still there.
Not wanting to hire an architect at close to a million euros I would almost call negligent. What probably confuses more people than it clarifies is when you say you want to build 180 sqm and then name a 138 sqm floor plan. But just as an aside.
So far, we just haven’t found anyone during our research where we thought at first glance "yes, that’s something" – the Point 138 was really just a rough idea for room layout, otherwise just forget it ;)
Preserving the tree is also very commendable. And to top that off, I would try to drastically increase the distance to the trunk. They say what you see above as a crown is mirrored below as roots in the same size in the earth. A 2.5m distance would probably kill the tree. Therefore, distance! Honestly, such a tree is worth gold, and if you have the choice between moving the house back + tree lives or killing the tree, definitely take the tree! We are laboriously trying to make a garden out of a former field. We lack big trees for shade. Wind and sun mercilessly burn away everything that tries to grow. Every new leaf is celebrated as a success. How we wish we had your beech!
I’m happy to keep fighting the leaf war against the rest of the street in autumn. But the 2.5m distance would quite certainly not kill the tree because the house (with partial cellar in that area) already stands there now. Almost everything else around the dripline to the west is sealed by our terrace or the neighbors’ access path, to the south and east there are walls for the 90cm embankment at about 3m distance, only below that can it further root. And that is then under the sidewalk and road on the east side. And it’s not the only tree, we still have a beech in the far west about half the size (which will definitely stay), a 5m whitebeam (stays), a 5m oak, a red Norway maple (difficult because it’s in the front garden, but should also stay). Hedges against wind and moist soil for water... until the 1950s the area was a nursery/tree nursery.
I would think of a prefabricated house, for example: Junto 190 from FINGERHUT-HAUS
That is probably too wide, but at least upstairs quite fitting – children’s and bedroom a bit smaller, but a small guest office added. But the ground floor worries and concerns me more (not surprisingly).
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How is the building fabric of the existing house?
Bad, I think you can put it like that. Built by grandfather himself after the war, cellar is damp to wet (interestingly not from the beech side), shell is sand-lime brick, sometimes also found rubble bricks (I believe). Ground floor uninsulated (brick slips in front of KS), cellar too. Attic has been partly insulated by my father but he didn’t know what he was doing, at least the dormer of the bathroom is also rotten, the chimney had to be removed due to frost damage already. The roof is the "original" one and therefore pretty worn out. I really don’t see any preservation/renovation...
And then the plot width 15.8 m at the street.
I would calculate 3 m distance from the north and 3 up to possibly even 4 m from the south.
Maximum house width thus 8.8 m... and I would really go at least 5 m into the plot or basically position the house from the building limit on the west. It would need to be clarified if terrace areas must lie within that building limit. And if a pure parking space could lie within the 5 m distance from the eastern property boundary. A wallbox or similar could be within the construction window then.
The side distances were about our maximum as well; we had 8.5m in mind there. We didn’t actually want to start at the west end because then there would be not much garden left at the back (and a front garden by the street, even if very quiet, is less cool than a quiet west garden). It would also be really stressful with the neighbor to the north who would then have no light anymore (but that would probably be so). It would of course leave more space for the tree, but then we couldn’t use the existing cellar hole and would have to dig it up.
I hope I caught everything for now and will keep thinking about it :)