derpikniker
2018-11-03 22:34:13
- #1
: Kudos for your help and consistency, but I guess we will never agree because we are arguing on different levels. We should leave it at that. I don’t want this to escalate here and be branded as a troll by the grown community. You can keep posting, but please do not expect any reactions from me.
: Now we are getting closer to the point.
- For the floor area ratio calculation, simplified applies: full square meters of the house + half the square meters of ancillary facilities (everything that prevents rain from entering the soil – sealed surfaces). Terraces have a special rule: if the terrace is directly on the house, then full square meters apply; if not directly on the house, then ¼ of the square meters – but this is not always recognized.
- I have planned 122m² for the ground floor including the built-over garage. Added are 18m²/2 for the driveway, 6m²/2 for the path to the front door, 25m²/2 for the garage and the 12m²/4 of the terrace obligatorily handled by the building authority. Possibly, we still need to declare another terrace or sealed surfaces. For this, I still have a 5m² reserve. Your new design is heading in the right direction.
- Your software has already wracked its brain over the structural planning. That is the reason why it transfers the walls below/above in the respective floor in light blue. If you do not place a load-bearing wall on another load-bearing wall, you transfer the pressure resting on the upper wall only to the ceiling below. This ceiling must then transfer the pressure to a “nearby” wall. In the best case (distributed load), shear forces occur; in the worst case (point load), shear and torsion forces arise. The ceiling then quite literally sags. Beams have, besides the subtle room-dividing effect, the unpleasant property of turning distributed loads into point loads. Houses with skeleton construction with wooden beam ceilings or steel skeleton constructions have fewer problems here; the massive house we favor will unfortunately not cope well with this. Even a basically more stable prestressed concrete ceiling will not be able to carry the load-bearing walls of the upper floor you set. Alternatively, the house can always be planned without load-bearing walls, but then the structural engineer will tell you about wind loads and plan many reinforcing elements hidden in the walls made of reinforced concrete. This usually blows the budget for the shell construction, and the builders consider whether they can live without floor coverings for the first ten years. At least that’s my experience; it’s not my first house. Therefore, I always plan all walls on the ground floor as load-bearing and think about how to transfer the loads of the second-floor ceiling onto them. Ideally, a load-bearing wall is also installed exactly in the middle of the house from top to bottom so that the roof loads do not have to be transferred exclusively onto the outer walls by overly long, super-thick, and overpriced ridge and intermediate purlins. This is also why structural engineers always plan from the roof down to the foundation slab and not the other way around.
- Do you have a scale for me? Then I can print it out and calculate the room sizes myself.
- The closet in the hallway would be too small for my wife now. We currently have 3 m built into the hallway, and she wants more. Therefore, I wanted to use the HAR and connect it to the hallway. After connecting, I calculated 3-4 m² for various open wardrobes. Additionally, there is still space under the bright open light-flooded staircase.
- Your kitchen fits already. I have only placed a balcony door right next to the kitchen to go directly outside. This way, you have no walking routes across the house.
- The issue with light on the stairs and in the hallways is a premise of mine. I currently have a closed hallway on the upper floor and am dissatisfied with it. Skylights I also find nice, but they have no place in bedrooms because they cannot be darkened and are not really soundproof.
- You have to insulate the roof anyway, otherwise you will struggle with moisture and mold in the upper floor in the first winter and onwards. Also, you cannot mill the staircase into the ceiling afterward. It must be completed up to the attic.
- We also have the dryer, of course. The crux here is that you cannot dry laundry for 5 people in the room you designed because the room volume is too small. My wife also wants to stack the bedding here, among other things. Therefore, after washing the laundry on the upper floor, you will have to take it down to the ground floor to dry it and then carry the dried laundry back upstairs – no advantage compared to my attic solution.
@ kbt09: The stair routing I favor on the outer wall works as well. As already mentioned, the ceiling height in the middle of the staircase landing is 230 cm. My children probably won’t grow that tall.
: Now we are getting closer to the point.
- For the floor area ratio calculation, simplified applies: full square meters of the house + half the square meters of ancillary facilities (everything that prevents rain from entering the soil – sealed surfaces). Terraces have a special rule: if the terrace is directly on the house, then full square meters apply; if not directly on the house, then ¼ of the square meters – but this is not always recognized.
- I have planned 122m² for the ground floor including the built-over garage. Added are 18m²/2 for the driveway, 6m²/2 for the path to the front door, 25m²/2 for the garage and the 12m²/4 of the terrace obligatorily handled by the building authority. Possibly, we still need to declare another terrace or sealed surfaces. For this, I still have a 5m² reserve. Your new design is heading in the right direction.
- Your software has already wracked its brain over the structural planning. That is the reason why it transfers the walls below/above in the respective floor in light blue. If you do not place a load-bearing wall on another load-bearing wall, you transfer the pressure resting on the upper wall only to the ceiling below. This ceiling must then transfer the pressure to a “nearby” wall. In the best case (distributed load), shear forces occur; in the worst case (point load), shear and torsion forces arise. The ceiling then quite literally sags. Beams have, besides the subtle room-dividing effect, the unpleasant property of turning distributed loads into point loads. Houses with skeleton construction with wooden beam ceilings or steel skeleton constructions have fewer problems here; the massive house we favor will unfortunately not cope well with this. Even a basically more stable prestressed concrete ceiling will not be able to carry the load-bearing walls of the upper floor you set. Alternatively, the house can always be planned without load-bearing walls, but then the structural engineer will tell you about wind loads and plan many reinforcing elements hidden in the walls made of reinforced concrete. This usually blows the budget for the shell construction, and the builders consider whether they can live without floor coverings for the first ten years. At least that’s my experience; it’s not my first house. Therefore, I always plan all walls on the ground floor as load-bearing and think about how to transfer the loads of the second-floor ceiling onto them. Ideally, a load-bearing wall is also installed exactly in the middle of the house from top to bottom so that the roof loads do not have to be transferred exclusively onto the outer walls by overly long, super-thick, and overpriced ridge and intermediate purlins. This is also why structural engineers always plan from the roof down to the foundation slab and not the other way around.
- Do you have a scale for me? Then I can print it out and calculate the room sizes myself.
- The closet in the hallway would be too small for my wife now. We currently have 3 m built into the hallway, and she wants more. Therefore, I wanted to use the HAR and connect it to the hallway. After connecting, I calculated 3-4 m² for various open wardrobes. Additionally, there is still space under the bright open light-flooded staircase.
- Your kitchen fits already. I have only placed a balcony door right next to the kitchen to go directly outside. This way, you have no walking routes across the house.
- The issue with light on the stairs and in the hallways is a premise of mine. I currently have a closed hallway on the upper floor and am dissatisfied with it. Skylights I also find nice, but they have no place in bedrooms because they cannot be darkened and are not really soundproof.
- You have to insulate the roof anyway, otherwise you will struggle with moisture and mold in the upper floor in the first winter and onwards. Also, you cannot mill the staircase into the ceiling afterward. It must be completed up to the attic.
- We also have the dryer, of course. The crux here is that you cannot dry laundry for 5 people in the room you designed because the room volume is too small. My wife also wants to stack the bedding here, among other things. Therefore, after washing the laundry on the upper floor, you will have to take it down to the ground floor to dry it and then carry the dried laundry back upstairs – no advantage compared to my attic solution.
@ kbt09: The stair routing I favor on the outer wall works as well. As already mentioned, the ceiling height in the middle of the staircase landing is 230 cm. My children probably won’t grow that tall.