House planning 135m2 in Austria

  • Erstellt am 2019-03-20 11:15:13

Gugelhupf

2019-03-20 22:04:12
  • #1
Uh, I’ve got a digit transposed in there now... That has to mean 31 or 34 kWh / m²a and not 0,x...

It should correspond to a theoretical KfW 31 or KfW 34 house. KfW houses start at KfW 40?
 

opalau

2019-03-20 22:15:01
  • #2
The 40 in KfW 40 does not stand for 40kWh but in my opinion for 40% (.. of an individual reference building or something similar). How many kWh a KfW-40 house is allowed to have cannot be said in general.

We only have minimum standard (~Kfw 70) and 35kWh.
 

haydee

2019-03-20 22:16:17
  • #3
No Passivhaus Max 15 kWh KfW 40 / KfW 40 Plus Max 25 kWh KfW 50 Max 35 kWh Energy Saving Ordinance Max 45 kWh The energy source is also included in the KFW funding However, the question remains whether the heating demand is calculated using the same method If you end up below 25 kWh, really consider the 2 systems I mentioned. You save the collectors and the underfloor heating
 

Gugelhupf

2019-03-20 22:22:56
  • #4
Alright, then for the sake of simplicity, let's assume that here in Lower Austria the very minimum requirement for funding corresponds roughly to a KfW50 house. And that only if you use solar or photovoltaics and a heat pump. It will be roughly like that...
 

boxandroof

2019-03-20 22:33:53
  • #5


Sorry for the digression, but the still immature plan to insulate the interior walls is not entirely pointless. With the same heating surface and supply temperature, the bathroom will be warmer if you insulate it slightly from the colder rooms.

Instead of a 40cm thick interior wall, a few centimeters of additional insulation will surely suffice. But all of this should be calculated in advance when planning the underfloor heating.

Controlled residential ventilation has little impact; exhaust air rooms receive warmer air than supply air rooms.

18° in the bedroom and 24° in the bathroom are hardly achievable without insulation between the rooms, for example. Furthermore, the efficiency of the heat pump decreases significantly if you have to operate it at a higher supply temperature for the entire house just because of the tropical bathroom.

If permanently high temperatures are needed in the bathroom, you either have to accept permanently higher electricity costs or plan accordingly in advance: lay underfloor heating into the walls and, if necessary, insulate the interior walls slightly. Especially towards the bedroom.

We planned our bathroom at only 21°, did without wall heating and insulation, and installed an additional electric heater to be able to heat electrically when needed. But it may not be allowed in Austria, no idea.

: I would especially plan the underfloor heating for the bedroom, if you do not insulate the wall to the bathroom, with a loop so that the dressing room is fully covered (warm) first, and then the pipe is laid further into the actual bedroom (cold end). That will (slightly) support the bathroom and costs nothing.
 

boxandroof

2019-03-20 23:28:56
  • #6
Saves a lot on the initial cost. For a pure air heating system, everything really has to fit, and the heating load should not exceed 15W/m². The residents must behave accordingly. I would only consider it for a genuine passive house, which does not seem to be the case here.
 

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