Semi-detached house feasibility assessment ideas notes

That has no value as long as you do not provide the information about the roof. What is the knee wall height and the roof pitch?

Unfortunately, no answer from the BT yet.
But that doesn’t necessarily affect the ground floor and upper floor? And in the new draft, I have already boxed out the sand-lime brick anyway. Whether I then have 3 or 4 m³ of storage space behind it makes no real difference.

The heating must go into the attic, if possible. Also, you have to say whether you want to and can pay for the dormer(s).

Why "must"? I have entered the actual dimensions of the technology in the utility room. The safety distances for the fuse box are there. For its dimensions, I have now researched standard sizes online and added a bit extra.
The BT says that a utility room of 5 m² is a minimum, but it works.
So why must it go into the attic now?

Regarding dormers:
I could put dormers on one side, but I am of the opinion that I do not need more space in the attic, but if dormers are necessary for your idea, feel free to include them.

What might help a bit, here every centimeter counts:
Instead of walls, custom-fit cabinets.
My parents-in-law have, for example, dining room-hallway
children’s room-hallway
And I have also seen it in Das Haus or Schöner Wohnen.

You mean in my floor plan in AZ/AK? But wouldn’t at least a narrow drywall need to be installed for soundproofing? I have assumed it that way for now.
Or somewhere else?

You must also know the wall thickness to the neighbor.
So to make it short: if it is extremely tight, you must know everything for a floor plan.

According to BT’s statement: no thinner exterior wall toward the neighbor. I don’t know why there has to be ETICS (WDVS) between the neighbors and me, but this is first only a statement from the salesperson.
I have now seen it this way that I will not plan in the maximum 14 cm that I might gain due to the shrinkage caused by plaster as you mentioned. If it does turn out to be something, then I can still consider where to use the gain (I am thinking bathrooms and living area, so on the right plan side, exactly where the possibly thinner exterior wall would also be).

Best regards

Tolentino

I don't understand ! Katja, Kerstin and I each provided a draft for the upper floor: they are feasible, very effective, meet your room program (assuming 2 children's rooms can be made on the upper floor), are cost-effective to implement and do not reduce the resale value. Moreover, they offer a lot of storage space with common room dimensions and also freedom of movement. Furthermore, by sliding the staircase, functional rooms can still be made from it. And what do you do? You absolutely have to build 5 corners into a functioning wheel! Why are you doing that?

Exactly there, for example. Yes, I think the noise is a problem. The parents-in-law have a split-level house where, for example, the two boys were on the same level. I could imagine it with you in the parents' area, possibly on the ground floor near the hallway.

The more modern house has really replaced a lot of walls, including between the children's rooms. I would have the concern that it might become too noisy.

Unfortunately, no response from the BT yet. But that doesn't necessarily affect the ground floor and upper floor, does it? And in the new draft, I have already shelved the KS anyway. Whether I have 3 or 4 m³ of storage space behind it is six of one, half a dozen of the other.

Yes and no! As soon as there is a KS, the 2m shifts towards your advantage to the outer wall and rooms arise that you can use as a HAR / utility room. If the heating on the ground floor is gone, the kitchen could possibly move towards the street or the entrance area become larger.

Why "must"? I have entered the real dimensions of the technology in the utility room. The safety clearances for the electrical box are there. For its dimensions, I have now researched standard dimensions on the internet and added a bit more. The BT says that a utility room of 5 m² is the minimum but it works. So why does it have to go to the attic now?

So that there is space for 5 people on the ground floor.

Honestly? With three children, that won't work and you will regret having built it that way.

We are currently building a [REH] measuring 6.84 x 10m - also without a basement. However, we have an attic, a utility room of about 11 sqm under the roof, a storage room under the stairs on the ground floor, and a dormer.

Without a basement, you will never be able to store all the stuff you need for everyday life: winter jackets and shoes, Christmas decorations, the children's Bobby car, etc. It's simply all too cramped and then you don't even have a fully functional second bathroom when the kids get older.

I don't understand it ! Katja, Kerstin and I each submitted a draft for the upper floor: they are feasible, very efficient, meet your room program (assuming two children's rooms can be made on the upper floor), are cost-effective to implement, and do not lower the resale value. In addition, they provide a lot of storage space with common room dimensions and also freedom of movement. Furthermore, by sliding the staircase, you can still make functioning rooms out of it. And what do you do? You absolutely have to build in 5 corners in a working cycle! Why do you do that?

I don't want to speak badly of your drafts, I have praised them and was quite enthusiastic. I expressly said that I was inspired by them. Regarding your question, there were the following reasons: 1. The woman's wish: a dressing room, which for me can also be combined with the study. 2. A study as a "dead-end room" is indeed very efficient and space-saving. Unfortunately, this partly contradicts the actual reason for the separate study. If I always have to go through the bedroom to get to the study, the disturbance factor is still present. I already wrote to another forum member that we have a daily rhythm offset by 6 hours. That means I already have to work while my partner is still sleeping. She is still awake when I already sleep (which would be the lesser problem). Furthermore, she is a very light sleeper and wakes up, for example, if I just turn over or drink water. So if I have to go to the bathroom during my home office time, she wakes up twice when I walk through the bedroom. I wanted to simplify this with the passage room in front of the bedroom, instead of a dead-end room behind it. I believe I have adhered to minimum dimensions (except for one corner, where the small cabinet could simply be smaller). The costs and resale value due to the partition in drywall construction are, I think, negligible. Or is there something else specifically that absolutely does not work? I don't want to defend the exotic floor plan at all costs, but please give concrete criticism. Thanks for your patience! Regards Tolentino