Floor plan design of a 100 m² bungalow with expansion reserve

There is only 1 car. But the carport should have space for two cars

It’s not just about what you want, but how many parking spaces does your development plan require? Is the carport allowed to start so close to the street? Often, the development plan also requires a 5m distance from the property boundary in front of the carport.

Everything has its pros and cons. If you insulate the roof right away, then you also heat the rooms in the attic with the ground floor, which results in a higher flow temperature of the heating and higher heating costs. If you insulate the intermediate ceiling, then you will have to insulate the roof during the expansion, which means double work and costs. Besides the intermediate ceiling, the stairway and the door must also be insulated. If the expansion is planned in a few years, I would do the former. If the question is whether it will ever be expanded at all, then I would do the latter.

Ok, understood, thanks for the explanation.

It's not only about what you want, but how many parking spaces does your development plan require?

Is the carport allowed to start so close to the street? Often the development plan demands a 5m distance from the property line in front of the carport.

According to building regulations, 1.5 parking spaces must be created on the property. So theoretically you could make a single carport on one side and a simple parking space on the other side.

However, the development plan says nothing about the distances, so I guess the standard minimum distance of 3 m applies. I will discuss this again at the next appointment with the architect.

Is it allowed for the carport to begin so close to the street? Often, the development plan also requires a 5m distance from the property boundary in front of the carport

You can quite well see what is allowed by looking at the neighboring buildings. Apparently, 3 meters from the street and a lot of sealing.

A gable roof with a 30-degree pitch would have significantly less area than a hip roof,

Well, I admit that 30 degrees is rather low (38 degrees would probably be better).
however, your example with 45 degrees: I don’t really know what you calculated there.
You are somehow in the cubic meter range.

For a gable roof with a 45-degree pitch and a 10 x 10 m2 base area
Area with height over 2 m: 3.08 x 10 m2 = 30.8 m2
Area with height 1 m to 2 m: 6.44 x 10 m2 - 30.8 m2 = 33.6 m2
Thus a theoretical total area of 30.8 m2 + 33.6/2 m2 = 47.6 m2

Of course a gable roof has more area over 2 meters, because at the gable ends there is no roof pitch at all.

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Sorry, these are just quickly thrown together sketches.
However, your goal is not to maximize living space, but to create two nice rooms plus bathroom plus storage.
Basically, you are single and just want to cover options.
You are ignoring the 2nd emergency exit.

In total next to and behind the house 208.24 m^2. From that we now subtract about 15 m^2 terrace, then you would have 193.24 m^2 of area for garden and other, next to and above the house.
That is not “no garden at all,” is it? How big should a garden be?

Honestly, I don’t know what you are calculating there. And above the house, next to the house... You also want to be able to move a few steps away from the house and look at it from the garden corner, maybe design an additional seating area. I’m the last one to always push everything to one garden side so that a lawn area only exists on one side, as others want it for their children. But at least something that you can call space and design would be nice.

So you would recommend moving the carport further forward? Basically up to the house boundary?

No! I can’t say that.
If I were you, I would first create templates (leave the program and the PC aside, and take graph paper and pencil).
Draw the plot and the neighboring buildings. Then a pie piece indicating where the sunlight is in winter.
House as a template in 12 x 12 and 9 x 13. Carport 6 x 6, storage room 2.5 x 6. Terrace 4 x 4.
And then shift and make photos with your phone.
Tip: Storage rooms can also be placed at the side of a carport.
Carports can be rotated.
Wide driveways can also be used as an “entrance platform.”
You can modify everything later. Then a rough grid where rooms would be well placed: dining table and kitchen in the brightest spot, bathrooms N/NE,
bedroom with east window.
Zoning is also important: public life at the front entrance, further back the private area where you don’t want street dirt between bedroom and bathroom.

Regarding the question:
It could be that I also end up with a south carport, but then I know that I will still have many south-facing windows to capture sunlight. Living rooms will then rather be located in the south/southwest and the terrace in the west behind a hedge.
I found the street on the internet yesterday/the day before and I orient myself by that, assuming it is only this one street intended for residents without significant through traffic?!
But I also don’t want to force myself into a corset and avoid such requirements like having to use a side entrance instead of the main entrance or having the utility room next to the kitchen. I also don’t consider a straight staircase the first choice.
You always have to make some compromises, and compromises arise naturally during planning, without planning around one detail so that nothing fits anywhere.

Anyway: there are people who do not care about orientation. They don’t care if they have to turn on the light briefly or not. Or have to make a quarter turn on the stairs. With such a staircase, you can at least save many square meters. Guest WCs, which I hardly enter, can also be windowless if it brings other advantages.
There are those who have always wanted a hip roof. Or the porch, quite classically in the front.
Don’t let us unsettle you. There must be a reason why you prefer the classic construction method. You should just know later why you “decided” on this or that and not have it imposed by the architect.

Artificial light in winter indeed does not sound very inviting.

If you want to deal a little more with daylight on your property, I recommend typing “Sonnenverlauf” into a search engine of your choice; then you will find a tool that allows you to easily perform a sun simulation for your property and the desired time of year.

Thank you very much for the detailed feedback.

Well, I admit that 30 degrees is rather very low (38 degrees would probably be better).
However, your example with 45 degrees: I don’t know what you calculated there.
You are somehow in the cubic meter range there.

I will come back to the roof topic later, as soon as it becomes clearer in the floor plan where the journey is heading.

No! I can’t say that.
If I were you, I would make some templates (leave the program and PC aside and take graph paper and pencil).
Draw the plot and the neighboring buildings. Then a pie slice showing where the sunlight is in winter.
House as a template in 12 x 12 and 9 x 13. Carport at 6 x 6, storage room at 2.5 x 6. Terrace 4 x 4.
And then move and do photos with your phone.

I was lazy this time and looked at the sun path with the online tool. In any case, the plot faces almost exactly north and there is only sun in winter for a few hours from southwest to southeast.

Tip: Storage rooms can also be placed on the side of a carport.
Carports can be rotated.
Wide driveways can also be used as “entrance platforms.”
You can modify everything later. Then a rough grid where the rooms would be nicely placed: dining table and kitchen in the brightest, bathrooms N/NE,
bedrooms with east window.
Zoning is also important: in front at the entrance the public life, further back the private area where you don’t want street dirt between bedroom and bathroom.

Regarding the question:
It may be that I end up with a south carport again, but then I know that I will still have many windows in the south to capture sunlight. The living spaces will then be found rather in the south/southwest and the terrace in the west behind a hedge.
I found the street on the internet yesterday/the day before and I orient myself on the fact that there is only this one street, intended for residents without major through traffic?!

A terrace on the west side behind a hedge would really be a great idea. Then I might also shift kitchen and living room a bit towards the west again, as you suggested. Because yes, this street is only for residents, practically a dead end. Through traffic would probably be limited.

But I have to think about it again. As of now, I don’t really want to be too close to the street and tend to prefer a hidden terrace behind the house, oriented east (south side).

In the new design, I placed the living room in the south and southwest; that should also give some light in winter.
Bedroom and bathroom face east and the sink is no longer in that dark horror bottleneck.

The entrance to the living room is now unfortunately somewhat hidden, but I have to be able to access the kitchen from the living room. That also somehow torpedoes the zoning, because now everything is somehow next to each other. But you can’t have everything.

I painted the theoretical garden area behind and next to the house in green. The calculation in my post was a bit rough; I hope it is more illustrative this way. In any case, there would still be quite some space, at least behind the house.

Can you give feedback on this design again? Are there one or more disaster points that would make the plan fail? Thanks!

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There are those who always want a hipped roof. Or the front roof, quite classically facing forward.
Don’t let us unsettle you. There will surely be a reason why you prefer the classic construction method. But later one should know why one “decided” for this or that and not just be told by the architect.

I don’t know if I prefer any construction type and what all exists. As a layman, I know far too little about the whole matter. As I said, until recently, I absolutely did not consider the topic of light and cardinal direction.
The design is ultimately a combination of things I picked up here on the internet and among acquaintances.
My architect actually did not impose much either.

As I wrote above, I received this design back then

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and I didn’t like many things: the small office next to the living room, the staircase with landing, the living room with expansion. So I remodeled it alone and the architect then basically adopted that 1:1 for the second design
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So there really isn’t a good reason for this or that decision in the design. So please feel free to give further criticism and comments; that helps me a lot.

I have overlaid the sun path on the plan. In winter (December 21), the sun should start in the morning at the kitchen and end in the evening at the living room. The center of life is therefore quite bright. In summer (June 21), on the other hand, there should be more sun accordingly in the east and west. Only in the bedroom, utility room, and the office not much, but exactly there you do not want that much sun and heat anyway.