Planning outdoor lighting, focus on burglary security

If the TV always turns on at 1:30 a.m., that's suspicious.

At 1:30 a.m. you don’t need to simulate presence anymore; the normal case is that people are in bed then. But now in the evening at half past eight, that is enough to deter opportunistic offenders. Normal people are rarely spied on for weeks; that’s done with houses like Rick’s. After all, criminals also want to work as little as possible, and in a quiet residential area you can easily stand out when spying. And if you are being spied on professionally, smart home presence simulation won’t help you anymore. And at worthwhile targets, the alarm system no longer deters.

I think you misunderstood. Nobody lies in the grass for 2 weeks with binoculars watching a house. There are about 80 new buildings standing relatively close together here. People stroll through in the evening and take a look. If someone thinks it deters when they turn on a lamp in the living room at 9:23 pm, fine. The only problem: when it’s bright inside, you can easily look in from outside in the dark. And then you can see if someone is sitting in front of the TV or if it’s just the TV simulation lamp. That can even tell a clever opportunistic thief "Oh look, no one’s home. Let’s go." Especially if there’s no car in the driveway. That’s always particularly dumb ;) I stick to my point. Normal lighting outside, don’t overdo it. And if you have to choose between security windows and smart home for presence simulation... always take the windows.

Car is parked in the garage at the OP's place, so it is not visible. And I did not give the hint about the window and the [OG] for nothing ;)

Before a break-in, one is adequately protected if the break-in takes (too) long and the risk of discovery is high. That means good windows and doors, noise, and possibly a lot of light. Some spotlights in the eaves or up-down lights (on the cellulite wall) do little here, rather proper floodlights in the right places. Cameras are nice to provide the police with good images afterwards and for one's own curiosity, but they deter no one.

In a current project, narrow, long LED floodlights from stage technology were installed on a villa above the attic. You can hardly see them, but in the event of a break-in or panic outside, they create a proper stadium atmosphere.

A floodlight often blinds, where you plan 5 spots in the eaves boxes, one on the left and right each is enough.
One wall spot on the gable side is enough, placed in the middle. Windows are suitable for one in the middle.

Yes, I already thought that we could reduce that. The wallet is happy about that.

Ideally without floor-to-ceiling windows because otherwise you could see that the room is empty.

At the street front, the front door has a floor-to-ceiling side panel and two tall windows each. Everything else in the house is floor-to-ceiling.

An alarm system and security windows with at least RC2 rating are probably much better than a few lamps.
Oh, and if you put spots in the roof box, make sure your plaster looks good... you highlight every dent, that can really look bad. I have two negative examples nearby...

We will take RC2 windows as well as the fittings. Alarm system, what exactly do you recommend in terms of technical implementation?
The interior plaster looks great, if the exterior turns out the same, I’ll be very happy!

You need light anyway. I just find it a bit exaggerated here, with 10 spots, 3 wall lamps in front, a floodlight at the back.
Triggered by motion detectors anyway, it’s supposed to light up when you need it and not constantly.

But what I actually wanted to say is, that only helps at night or the camera for the (very unlikely) clarification afterwards.
The most unattractive thing to burglars is security windows and an alarm system.

Yes, light sources will be reduced.
Any idea where is best to install the motion detectors? Which directions can I combine? Or better one detector for each house side?

You are reasonably protected against burglary if the break-in takes (too) long and the risk of discovery is high. That means good windows and doors, noise and possibly lots of light. Some spots in the roof box or up-down lights (on the cellulite wall) do little here, rather proper floodlights in the right places. Cameras are nice to provide good images to the police afterwards and for your own curiosity, but they don’t stop anyone.

Do you mean that high-lumen spots don’t provide enough brightness? The beam angle naturally has to fit.

I think I have to walk through the new development area in the evening and see what kind of lighting the neighbors have around their houses.

So, in summary, I reduce to three spots at the roof boxes and one on the gable side.
The question remains where to mount the motion detectors and which lamps to connect to which detector.
Optionally place a floodlight in front of the garage?

Do you mean that high-lumen spots don’t provide enough brightness? The beam angle has to be right, of course.

Nope. Or they are not usable for other lighting purposes unless dimmable. That’s why effect lighting is usually separated from alarm lighting. Those are two fundamentally different things.

So interior plaster looks great, if the outside turns out like that too, I’ll be very happy!

Unfortunately, that has nothing to do with each other.