Swedish stove or similar. With/without DIBt

  • Erstellt am 2015-12-08 20:17:16

ypg

2015-12-08 23:52:26
  • #1


Assuming the district chimney sweep doesn't mind...
Then ask yourself what is better:
Either the installation of a simple wood stove + installation of a pressure monitor
or
the installation of a room-independent certified (which are not uncommon nowadays) wood stove.
So either a utility item with an additional inspection or an independently functioning item...
 

T21150

2015-12-09 10:32:45
  • #2


The information I have for my installation situations from the heating engineer, the electrician, and the BSFM states: costs would have been between 1.5 and 2k euros. The switch not only has to be purchased but also integrated and connected.

Other builders I know who needed a pressure switch (for the ventilation system) confirm this opinion.

The device itself would have cost about 650.
 

Sebastian79

2015-12-09 10:39:44
  • #3
I bought one and connected it - those are two cables that need to go outside... quite a crazy effort ;)

I’m not telling this from theoretical knowledge.

And the guardian is of course certified - the price of under 350 euros is understandable.
 

nordanney

2015-12-09 11:00:28
  • #4
Right, a P4 is "given away", we had to decide on Wodtke - it then cost around €1,000, but with temperature sensor and accessories (if the fireplace is not on and underpressure is still measured, the pressure switch does not turn off the controlled room ventilation either). What does the pressure switch do? In case of underpressure, it cuts power to the controlled room ventilation via a cable - nothing more and nothing less. There is nothing to integrate, just connect a cable that was already laid during the construction phase. Installation took about 1.5 hours.
 

Sebastian79

2015-12-09 11:03:13
  • #5
That's exactly right - I also have "only" the P4, but that should be enough...
 

T21150

2015-12-09 15:06:24
  • #6
Hi, my last post on this part "Price differential pressure sensor" (because it is almost off-topic anyway).

Of course, I believe you both that you realized it cheaper.

Regarding my situation and wishes, two companies independently suggested my mentioned price range. When building, I always say: take the higher value.

- Of course, a corresponding 5-core cable already runs to the utility room. Since the electrical installation took place immediately after the shell of the house was erected, at a time when no one knew exactly where which ventilation system would go, it ends at a place quite well guessed by me, but not perfect. Further laying work. Although not expensive.

- I don’t just drill a hole in my house wall. The rain, driving rain, and wind/pressure tightness must be permanently maintained. The outside appearance should not suffer either.
So I would have had that done, if only for warranty reasons (and also because after all the construction work I really had no desire at all to do it).

- My ventilation system has a fireplace function.
A solution that simply switches off the power of the system at the distribution box would not have been an option for me. Therefore, someone would have had to work inside the system (and would have needed some parts, I didn’t look into that further). I wouldn’t have done that myself either, because of warranty (and as above: no desire).

Now – the fireplace function can also be activated manually and I do that when I light the fireplace.

Thus, *for me* the mentioned price would have resulted.
Exactly as it was cheaper for you.

I’m glad that I was spared that.

Thorsten
 

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