Exhaust air vs. recirculated air in a controlled residential ventilation system

Hello Teyla, we bought the duct box directly from the kitchen studio. I wouldn’t do it again today, as it is cheaper elsewhere. I had the construction company drill a hole. This is not so easy in aerated concrete because the core drilling machine cannot be secured. Then I installed the box after the exterior plaster. I think it would be ideal to install the box between the base coat and the top coat plaster. This should be discussed with the plasterer. I had to scrape off some of the plaster so that the installation collar of the exhaust hood is flush with the wall. Now, however, the stainless steel cover only protrudes the 2 mm thickness it has itself. Otherwise, the flap works very well. It does happen sometimes that the wind suction pulls it open but very rarely, and it is quite windy here. But maybe the wind rarely comes from the direction where wind suction is a problem. And the exhaust hood generates enough pressure to also press it closed against the wind.

Bratac

Hello, we also have a central controlled residential ventilation system and an exhaust hood, and as a connection box we have the FLOWSTAR150 from Naber. It looks sleek and works.

What is your experience with the exhaust hood and the controlled residential ventilation system? Does no negative pressure occur with you? Wouldn't you have to ensure additional supply air, for example by tilting the window?

Yes, a negative pressure is created, but I only tilt the window when I run the hood at the maximum level. You can notice it when you open a window or door. I have not been able to detect any impairment of the ventilation system. It should be mentioned that I installed the exhaust air for you and am therefore also responsible for any possible complications. If you commission a general contractor to build the exhaust air and ventilation system, there will surely be a thousand arguments why that won't work. Since the general contractor is liable in the event of a serious case.

For us, the issue is also not yet resolved. Controlled residential ventilation is planned. Recirculation costs a lot of money if it is supposed to work properly and generates follow-up costs. There is simply nothing under €2000 that does not just blow odors and grease back into the room faster. Especially not if it is not supposed to be a wall solution, but rather hung over an island or something similar – and then still work (distance pot - extraction). At the moment, we are somewhat going in circles on this topic.

Thank you !
: How is it going with you regarding negative pressure and the interaction with the controlled residential ventilation?
: I feel exactly the same right now, although I am now leaning 95% towards a solid exhaust solution (Berbel wall box).
We currently have exhaust (Power kitchen) and it performs well, but I still always have to wipe off grease and clean afterward.
I can’t imagine getting this done properly with a standard recirculation system.
And grease in my controlled residential ventilation is absolutely to be avoided.

Hello.

I am rather opposed to ventilation systems. Our old house is not really airtight; when it's windy, there is always some draught. The exhaust hood still moves considerably more air when you open a window, you can hear that too. So the volume flow of the hood is also an order of magnitude higher than that of the [Kontrollierte-Wohnraumlüftung], the pressure reserve perhaps two orders of magnitude. This can really only work if the [Kontrollierte-Wohnraumlüftung] can switch fully to through ventilation, i.e., all flaps open, supply air also through the exhaust, fan off. Or else: tilt the window.