Smart home / Home automation - Consulting

After I basically did nothing last week but read the book and plan, I am now done with the room program.

Attached are the floor plans with drawn-in symbols with clear position numbers, the legend, and the room book (you can’t read that as a JPEG).

The biggest secret for me in the whole planning is still the lighting. Since we don’t really like ceiling spots because of the very focused lighting, I don’t know what the best way to do it is. In the circulation areas + WC + dressing room, it is now planned to install an LED panel for the main lighting. As accent lighting in the staircase, we would like small wall lamps at knee height by the stairs and wall lamps at the landings. Since these shouldn’t be very bright anyway, I have also omitted dimmability. Does that make sense?

In most living rooms, just one light source in the middle is planned, which is connected to a dimmer actuator. In the dining/kitchen area and the master bathroom, I would like to use LED RGB(W) strips for indirect lighting. Since I have quite a few Philips Hue products and these parts won’t just be thrown away, I am considering whether it might also be possible (cheaper) to cover these strips with the Hue system. The Hue system could then be integrated into the bus via a KNX gateway.

Basically, I would like to cover as much as possible with LEDs; for this, DALI would be perfectly suited, but I don’t really want to understand it yet: Simply put, I can run from the distributor to the next room with a 5x1.5 mm² cable. In each room, I then have a certain number of ballasts, which can be controlled via the DALI gateway. But since we won’t hang a ceiling due to the ceiling height, I’d probably have to put the ballasts in halogen boxes with transformer tunnels or do it centrally (which is not really recommended).

As you can see, the lighting is still giving me quite a headache.

Regarding the switch orgies, I tried to provide a maximum of one switch per room since the rooms are not particularly large. The exception is the bedroom, where an additional push button would be planned on each side of the bed. Does that make sense? What about the circulation areas (staircase, WC)? Would it not make sense to use a normal push button with bus coupler there to be able to switch the main lighting on, in case the automatic one (dimmed + stair lighting) is not sufficient, or to manually control the shading?

I really tried to let go of the idea of using as few switches as possible, but it just doesn’t make sense to me how I am supposed to control the brightness of the lighting in such rooms without a push button. The idea would be, preliminarily, that in each adjacent room (E0 = entrance, E1 = kitchen, E2 = living room, E3 = hallway) one button of the existing switch there is used for the lighting in the staircase. That should work then.

Should I rather connect the light in the basement to the bus? I have read that it can be useful not to do so, to still have light at the distribution board in case of bus failure.

In total, the switched sockets seem enormously many to me; I still don’t really know whether that is needed or not. Do I understand correctly that if I run only for the sockets with a 5x1.5 cable into a room from the distributor, I can create 3 groups with that? For example, 1 group constant power, 2 groups switchable?

Would it make sense preliminarily to plan a sub-distribution in the stairwell on level 2 or 3? How do I then have to connect this sub-distribution with the basement?

Lots of text; I hope you can help me further because after the week my head is really smoking and I probably can’t see the forest for the trees anymore.

Outdoor facilities are still being planned but have not really been considered yet.

Thanks at this point also again to who provided me with his planning.

Best regards

Oops, I didn’t get the planning from Tom, but from ... Thanks

Hello,

Do I understand correctly that if I run a 5x1.5 cable from the distributor to a room only for the sockets, I can then create 3 circuits with it? For example, 1 circuit constantly powered, 2 switchable circuits?

Yes, that's exactly how it is.

Would it make sense to plan a sub-distribution on level 2 or 3 in the stairwell as a feeder? How do I have to connect this sub-distribution with the basement?

It also depends a bit on the cable lengths. From a certain length (around 15m), you must no longer fuse with 16A.

If you make sub-distributions (which I consider sensible), you must feed them with 16mm². The advantage is that you have shorter cable runs to the consumption points.

I really tried to let go of the idea of using as few switches as possible, but it just doesn't convince me how I should be able to control the brightness of the lighting in such rooms without a push button.

I solved it in my place by having a lot of 'blind boxes' (-> simply plastered over) with bus wiring. If I ever need another switch, I just break them open. This way, you can also install special things later. You can also use the bus wiring for i2c or onewire (as long as it is laid out in a star shape). The bus makes it very easy to start minimalist and then retrofit if necessary.

As for your lamps, just run all lamp outlets from the distributor in a star shape, then you can later decide what you connect where and how you control it. Better a few more than too few.

I have the boxes in every room at 1.15m AND at 1.55m, just like in the picture here. In an emergency, you can then install a second switch above (there are nice ones with a display).

Is this the MDT glass sensor?

Yep, I would install it again!! Then, at the top, the [mdt glastaster 2] will be added, which will be available in 3-4 weeks. It has a display and you can then set/display the heating settings as well as control the individual operation for the blinds (there are 5 blinds in the room).