Smart home / Home automation - Consulting

@Tom: What kind of covers did you use for your [Blinddosen] and can you not see them at all under the plaster?

I have also planned some spots like that and they should ideally disappear completely.

before

after

is not yet painted/wallpapered. If you look closely, the flags stick out a little. If I had cut the flags beforehand, it would be completely invisible.

Thank you for the pictures. Can I take away my girlfriend's fear?

The important thing is to have images, otherwise it becomes difficult to find again

I have illustrated everything twice and thrice

It also depends a bit on the cable lengths. From a certain length (around 15m), you are no longer allowed to fuse with 16A.

If you make sub-distributions (which I consider sensible), then you have to feed them with 16mm². The advantage is that you have shorter cable runs to the consumption points.

I solved it at my place by having a lot of 'blind boxes' (-> simply plastered over) with bus cables. If I ever need another switch, I just break it open. That way you can later install special things. You can also use the bus cable for i2c or onewire (as long as laid out star-shaped). The bus makes it easy to start minimalist and then possibly retrofit.

As for your lamps, just star-connect all lamp outlets from the distributor so you can decide later what you connect where and how you control it. Better a few more than too few.

I am increasingly getting to the idea that I actually would like to have a sub-distribution. Namely on level 3 in the stairwell.
E0 + E1 are then routed directly to the basement, and E2, E3 and E4 are pulled into the sub-distribution on E3.
That would probably have the effect of shortened cables.
A nice side effect would be that in case a fuse blows, at most half a level would be affected to the distributor.

The MDT glass switches are also in the running with us, but I have also become aware of the Glass Switch 2 Smart by now.
The glass switches don’t have buttons in the conventional sense, do they?
How is it with the new ones? I would like to have some kind of "button".

The thing with the empty boxes is a great idea. Especially at the height of 1.55m. You could also easily install an LED indicator there, since it is closer to eye level.
May I ask, what is the orange cable for? I thought the switches are only fed with the bus cable? 1-Wire? CAT?

€: Why does the product datasheet for the new glass switches state that the ones without a temperature sensor have a recommended installation height of 1.05–1.25m, and those WITH temperature sensor 1.60m?
Is the temperature sensor too close to the floor at 1.05–1.25m?

Is the temp sensor at 1.05-1.25 too close to the floor?

Yes, among other things... it then really shows the room temperature and you have to adjust less.

Regarding your questions about the hallway and switches...

Since moving in, I haven't had a switch in any of the passage rooms... you simply don't need them.

Admittedly, I have a touch panel at the entrance, but that is also used to control the rest of the house... for the "normal" lighting in the hallways, PMs with simple logic are absolutely sufficient.

At most, I would plan a switch directly at the front door for coming and going.

For hotspots, as others have already suggested, just run 5x1.5 and decide afterward which lights to use and how.

With LEDs, I initially thought here and there and also here... but by now almost everything is back to halogen, etc. The light is simply more pleasant in our eyes...