Irrigation system: Are mats useful?

Put properly sized rain barrels in place

How many liters would that be per m² of area? And just by the way: What is the general consensus in the forum regarding the problem that all water from the sewer system goes through the sewage treatment plant and eventually ends up back in the stream/river and also in the groundwater, where it is urgently needed?

It depends on what you regularly water with the watering can. Containers, vegetables that don't like wet leaves, plants that need soft rainwater, etc. For 3 boxes on the terrace, the stylish one with 250 liters is sufficient; if you have a container garden, it might need refilling every other day. If possible, I would prefer a cistern with a pump over the barrels. The drought monitor for 1.8 m depth in the Black Forest is mostly dark red. Surface water is partially better, but nothing in abundance.

Just as an example: Our last rain was at the beginning of May. The hedge planting from autumn 2018/spring 2019 has not been watered yet. The prairie bed, planted in autumn 2019 (gets sun all day), will be watered for the first time today or tomorrow. The roses planted in autumn 2019 have also not seen any watering yet. The lawn/meadow (roots usually only 10-15 cm deep) is just hay now. Even the clover is brown.

Since you are obviously quite a plant expert and I have absolutely no idea: How do you determine when the mentioned plants should be watered again? Why, for example, "today or tomorrow"?

Experience? Visual impression of the plants? Moisture measurements in the soil ...? :)

Since you are obviously quite a plant whisperer and I have absolutely no clue: How do you decide when the mentioned plants should be watered again? Why, for example, "today or tomorrow"? Experience? Visual impression of the plants? Moisture measurements in the soil ...? :)

Different. I go by the appearance. Many plants look as if they are dying of thirst in heat. Usually, they recover overnight. If they still look droopy in the morning, it's time. These are not crops but plants that tolerate heat and drought. If it is too late, most will sprout again. They know how to help themselves. My hollyhocks are only hip-high this year, normally about 2 meters. With the hedge, the leaves look dull and not as fresh anymore. Since they do not yet shed or wilt, time isn't pressing but it will become necessary. Potted plants are more labor-intensive and vegetables really don’t forgive mistakes. I use my hands for those as well: mulch is pushed aside and some soil removed. Observe the plants and just dare to try. Trial and error is part of it. Whether you want an evergreen lawn, a natural garden (the easiest to maintain), or one with Mediterranean plants. Some things also require overcoming hesitation. I find watering little or sometimes accepting that you have chosen the wrong plant difficult. By wrong I mean it does not fit the location, soil, etc.

back to the topic You want an ever-green lawn, some perennials, trees, bushes, flowers and use tap water. Understood correctly? Do you have requirements in the development plan for the planting? That can be quite restrictive. For the lawn, get help from with the design of the irrigation. He has done that here several times. For the rest, think about where you want what and how. I would plant that without automatic irrigation. Tap water costs, and the trend is rising. Choose plants that can mostly manage without irrigation after 2 years. Also use a thick layer of suitable mulch (suppresses weeds plastic-free). If it gets hot and dry, there is still the garden hose. Individual plants, raised beds and containers you can water with a watering can and rainwater. If your plant choice falls on water-loving plants, then you will also need irrigation there. I would choose trees as small as possible. Your garden is not huge. With a walnut tree, not much will be left in 40 years.

7,500 € is quite a hefty sum. You can definitely manage it much cheaper. We have just under 350 sqm of lawn area and about 150 sqm of flower beds and hedges. I had a 1-inch pipe installed into the garage from the start for fresh water with a separate meter. In the basement, there are two pressure reducers, so I get six bar on the "garden line." That also fills the pool pretty quickly.

What’s easiest is: I have a total of eight different channels/irrigation lines controlled by solenoid valves and a computer (all from Hunter). Attached to these are six impulse sprinklers for the lawn (throwing about 14 meters and atomizing very well). For the flower beds and hedges, I either use drip hoses or spray stakes. This way, I can regulate the different water needs of the plants very well and individually. For example, a hedge is almost completely in the shade and needs very little water, while the vegetable bed is in the full sun and needs a lot of water. The entire system cost about 1,800 € in materials. Installation was done in-house and was relatively simple since the garden was still a wasteland. I even housed the solenoid valves and cables in a visually appealing way inside a hanging tool cabinet, where I simply cut a slit at the bottom for the outgoing lines. The system has now been working flawlessly for four years.