Heat pump or solar thermal with radiators

A lot can be done with optical means…!

But, for example, it doesn't change the fact that
- kitchens, for example, no longer fit. Even Ikea is over 200cm tall (unless you forgo tall cabinets - but then it will probably look very bad)
- many 200cm pieces of furniture do not fit. Tilted 200cm cabinets cannot be stood up (the diagonal is larger)
- the passage height of a door will probably be a maximum of 180cm if a lintel was installed. If in doubt, lower. Causes a lot of headaches
and so on.

You can conceal a lot, but there are enough hard facts that cannot be changed.

A lot can be done with optical means…!

Well, at 2m as mentioned, I definitely see not only optical problems, but that’s the area of "my husband has to tilt his head at every door (and that every day) and my cousin can’t even stand straight in a normal living space anymore". No matter how good the optical tricks are, they won’t help there. At some point, there is simply a limit that’s no longer practical, and when you get close to it, yes, 5cm more or less suddenly makes a huge difference. Of course, it could be that this is simply not a problem for the original poster because the upstairs floor is intended for family anyway and no one there is particularly tall.

Well, there sits your dream woman in front of you and is only under 1.60 when standing up... already a no-go for you... and then you send your dream woman away because of 5cm? A lot can be done with optical means…!

well, there you laugh, wild South. etc...
I guess: it still applies nowadays, where everything could be possible, but isn’t: better the sparrow in the hand than the bird on the roof...

for example, kitchens no longer fit. Even Ikea is over 200cm high (unless you do without tall cabinets - then it probably looks very bad)

my tall cabinets are 160 high. Hanging cabinets, whether from Ikea or another brand, can always still be varied in height… As a renovator you should know possible options and not only think in maximum standard.

many 200cm furniture don’t fit. Tilted 200cm cabinets cannot be set up (the diagonal is bigger)

same. Then 200cm furniture just doesn’t fit. There are plenty of others.
from interior design one usually doesn’t go above 200cm furniture if the ceiling height is just under 200... the same applies when furnishing a fairly small room - then smaller furniture is rather appropriate. I don’t see why one should furnish low ceilings with higher cabinets. Why should one furnish small rooms with large furniture? Not everything is the same!

the clear height of a door will probably be around 180cm maximum if a lintel was installed.

probably there are already doors in this house that one has walked through...

Well, at 2m as said I do see not only optical problems, but that’s the range of "my husband has to tilt his head at every door".

It should probably be the case that a tall person avoids such rooms. Does the original poster then raise this as a topic for discussion? Here again the issue is getting blown out of proportion.

I would never invest in such a building in my life,

Some would never invest in a semi-detached house. Or in a living space under 90sqm... do you notice something?

Some people would never invest in a semi-detached house. Or in a living area under 90 sqm… do you notice something?

Yep, I do. A semi-detached house or a smaller apartment is subjective. Ceiling heights no longer permitted today with all restrictions compared to a modern property, on the other hand, is objective.

Yep, I notice that. Semi-detached house or smaller apartment is subjective. Today no longer permissible ceiling height with all restrictions compared to a modern property, however, is objective.

But it’s not about building a house, rather an existing property. So not a new build according to today’s Standard DIN, but about restoration, value preservation, etc. You can’t badmouth everything that YOU don’t like. By the way, I addressed @ i_b_n_a_ n

The radiators are rather poor in connection with a heat pump. The supply temperature needs to be quite high, around 45-55 degrees I think. When it is -10 degrees outside, the heat pump has to handle a difference of around 60 degrees.

The area with the underfloor heating will probably not be optimal either - I do not expect a close pipe layout. Back then, quite a bit of pipe length could be saved because the temperature being sent through was quite high.

I would supplement the existing gas boiler with a solar hot water collector with a small storage tank. It does not even have to be on the roof, as long as there is sun. The gas boiler should be set to turn on 3 times a day and heat the storage tank if necessary. In winter, the solar provides very little… That’s about the hot water. To heat the rooms, I would have 1 split air conditioning outdoor unit installed with 4 or 5 indoor units, placed strategically in the building.

That is easy to retrofit and the heat periods caused by climate change are also more bearable, especially if someone in your household likes to play on the PC (waste heat). Of course, this is not the perfect solution to achieve minimal operating costs - but the implementation is not super expensive and you don’t restrict yourself. If you ever want to switch the hot water production to a heat pump, you can do so. But that is only worthwhile once the gas boiler is broken… if the solar panel + storage for hot water preparation becomes unnecessarily expensive|complicated, you just leave it out and only do the split air conditioning. Compared to current gas prices, that can save quite a bit. At least no power-hungry heating element will turn on and you won’t have rooms that are too cold, because every degree of supply temperature costs efficiency. At -10 degrees you can also turn on the gas heater; heat pump efficiency is really poor at that point. The gas burns and does its job.