Heat pump is not compatible with a water-bearing fireplace

This thread gets the award for the biggest potential for confusion in the forum. :D Can you summarize again:

- How is the heating currently set? Footpoint? Slope? You can view everything on the heating system in the info menu, ideally without changing anything.
- If this is a new building, was a thermal balancing done by the plumber? (actually must be done)
- Has the plumber ever explained the system and its operation to you? If not, demand that. This is important.
- If you still have a warranty, why don't you ask the plumbing company that installed the unit (or the construction company) instead of others?
- What flow temperature is the heat pump currently running at?
- I assume it is outdoor temperature controlled, meaning it adjusts automatically depending on how cold it is outside? The problem with this setup is always when you have a room with an additional heat source that changes the demand - like a fireplace. Actually, the installing company should have taken that into account.

What I absolutely don't understand is why you TURN OFF the heating in all rooms except the bathroom and the room with the additional heater? I would rather turn up the room thermostats in all rooms except the room with the fireplace. Generally, closed individual room thermostats are poison for the efficiency of the heat pump. To explain it simply, this happens: The heat pump heats the water hotter than necessary (using unnecessary electricity) to then circulate it more slowly through the rooms (because the valves are closed). Makes little sense, right?

28 degrees

And then you wonder about exorbitant electricity and wood consumption?

Can the supply temperature of the underfloor heating be increased?

Yes, but it won’t help you at all. It will only increase consumption.

why can that be a problem with the controllers? Since we wanted it warmest in the bathroom, we were supposed to set it to 6 in the bathroom and then the temperature was adjusted based on the heating. The other rooms we were told to turn down. That was the instruction from the heating installer. And I don’t need heating in the bedrooms. And since it doesn’t exist on the controllers either - 1.

Rotormotor already explained this very well. You are heating the other rooms with the two rooms bathroom + living room. Even if you don’t want to and have turned down the controllers. Thermodynamics sees it differently.

As it looks, once again you have a typical house with a poorly or badly adjusted heating system. Combined with a usage behavior like radiator heating. But with an underfloor heating, which basically works the opposite way.

I bet that a nighttime setback is also programmed.

Your steps now would be:

- Hydraulic balancing
- Thermal balancing

But this usually takes a whole season and you need someone who knows what they’re doing.

Because, as I said, our theory is that the return flow with the cold water creates a swirl and that’s why the hot water cools down so quickly. Could that be?

No, those are independent systems.

Oh wow, you could still scroll further in the datasheet and there actually is an A16, which you apparently have. With that part, you could wonderfully heat a multi-family house! It probably not only consumes a lot of electricity but also cycles on and off frequently, but that would be the next task after you've got the power consumption somewhat under control. How do you even measure the power consumption? So where does the 65kWh consumption figure come from?

And yes, 28 degrees would also make my wood chip or gas heating expensive. That has nothing to do with heat pumps.

But as I said, first do the basics if you can't find a heating technician: Turn on the heating rod only at below zero temperatures. For both heating and hot water. Set the heating curve reasonably according to the instructions. Set all room thermostats to sensible values, maybe 2 for the bedroom, the rest 3 or 4 depending on the desired temperature. Turn the bathroom thermostat all the way up.

And then adjust the flow rates at the distribution boxes, but maybe do that later.

This thread gets the award for the greatest potential for confusion in the forum. :D
Can you summarize again:

- How is the heating currently set? Base point? Slope? You can check everything on the heating system in the info menu, ideally without changing anything.
- If this is a new building, was a hydraulic balancing done by the plumber? (which actually must be done)
- Has the plumber ever explained the system and its operation to you? If not, demand that. That’s important.
- If you still have a warranty, why don’t you ask the plumber who installed the unit (or the construction company) instead of others?
- What supply temperature is the heat pump currently running?
- I assume it is controlled by outside temperature, meaning it adjusts automatically depending on how cold it is outside? The problem with this setup is always when you have a room with an additional heat source, which changes the demand – like a fireplace. Actually, the installing company should have taken that into account.

What completely baffles me is why you TURN OFF the heating in all rooms except the bathroom and the room with the additional heating?
I would rather turn up the room thermostats in all rooms except the one with the fireplace. Generally, turned-down individual room thermostats are poison for the efficiency of the heat pump.
To put it simply, what happens is this: The heat pump heats the water hotter than necessary (using unnecessary electricity), to then circulate it slower through the rooms (because the valves are turned off). Makes little sense, right?

I’m confused by everything as well, so that fits!

So I just saw this data on the heating system
RT setpoint 19 degrees, reduced 17
Heating curve
Slope 0.8
Level O K
Supply temperature 27 degrees

Our heating technician comes about once a week and “tries things out”… connects differently, etc. All without success.
The thermostats are turned off because the rooms have “exceeded” 20 degrees and that’s enough. The doors are always open. Only in the bathroom do I want it warmer, so it’s turned up there.

Inclination 0.8

Bold! And every time I struggle with my 0.4 and think that's too much.

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Say goodbye to the idea that the heat pump heats individual rooms.

Imagine your entire house with the rooms as one large water circuit.

For each room, you have an access that is adjustable and determines how much water flows through in what time.

The entire circuit is heated to one temperature.

To bring a room to the desired temperature, you have to let a certain amount of water in depending on the room size.

If all rooms are the same size, that’s no problem; you simply let the same amount of water in everywhere.

But rooms are always different sizes, so you have to let in the amount that fits the room everywhere.

You regulate this via the access (manifold of the underfloor heating, where you can adjust the flow rate).

Unfortunately, in some rooms not enough water fits to heat them to the desired temperature (usually the bathrooms because they are small and higher temperatures are desired).

Now you can either create space for more water (smaller pipe spacing or wall heating) or you increase the water temperature.

Increasing the temperature (that’s the known supply temperature) brings the desired warmth to the bathroom but the other rooms also become warmer now.

So you have to reduce the amount of water here until you reach your desired temperature.

This is called the thermal balancing.

However, there is the problem that at low outside temperatures the heat is no longer sufficient.

You could now increase the amount of water entering each room, but then you would have the problem of having to readjust everything precisely again so it fits, and you are also limited by the smaller rooms where no more water fits.

But our heating system knows from the outdoor sensor that the outside temperature is dropping.

So it increases the supply temperature to compensate.

Since before all rooms were adjusted to their correct temperature by the thermal balancing, this works.

That is the heating curve of the heating system, in which it is stored by how much the supply must be changed when the outside temperature changes.

This is a simplified representation, but it depicts the basic function.