Heat pump is not compatible with a water-bearing fireplace

You hadn't mentioned anything besides the temperatures and more so far, everything looked as expected.

You probably mean 65kWh?
That would really be way too much per day. Especially with the high temperatures we still have.

I just assume your electric heater is active.
And probably too many room thermostats turned up and thus overall too high flow temperature, which is not good for the heat pump.
So the usual things: electric heater off or balance point significantly lowered, hydraulic and thermal balancing, ERR on, etc...

Well, also one could take another look at what's going on with your house at all.
A new build that uses 10m³ of wood seems not quite tight to me anyway. ;-)
How do you ventilate? Do you sleep with the window open, etc.?

Yes sorry, of course kWh.
The electric heater is off.
I just checked, in the bathroom and living room the room thermostats are between 4-5, in all other rooms at 1. Do you mean that?
Unfortunately, I can't make sense of all the other terms.
Are you familiar with this and can you help us?
Well, the wood consumption is because we wanted to save electricity and I generally like it warm. The saving electricity part didn't work out, but I usually had a pleasant 28 degrees in the living room ;-)

Now the underfloor heating is on and our hot water does not go beyond the threshold of +/- 55 degrees.

This can be changed in the settings. However, I would leave it as it is; every degree more means more money out of your pocket. Because the heating will then try to keep the water at the set temperature at all times. Even when the stove is off and no sun is shining.

When the underfloor heating is off, we have between 65-75 degrees, either through the heating element in sunlight or by stoking the stove.

That is also okay, because the excess energy has to go somewhere.

But now this energy seems to dissipate. It can't be that the underfloor heating needs 70 degrees for its flow temperature of 35 degrees?! The water comes back only slightly cooler. So it must be heated up by a maximum of 5 degrees.

If the underfloor heating is set to a flow temperature of 35 degrees, then it will get that. That initially has absolutely nothing to do with your hot water preparation.

In the bathroom and living room, the room controllers are set between 4-5, in all other rooms to 1. Do you mean that?

That could be a problem.

That can be changed in the settings. But I would leave it as is; every degree more means more money out of your pocket. Because the heating system will then try to maintain the water at the set temperature at all times. Even when the stove is off and no sun is shining. That is also okay because the excess energy has to go somewhere. If the underfloor heating is set to a flow temperature of 35 degrees, then it will get that. That initially has nothing to do with your hot water preparation. That could pose a problem.

Can the flow temperature of the underfloor heating be increased? Because, as I said, our theory is that the return flow with the cold water creates such a swirl and that is why the hot water cools down so quickly. Could that be? Why can that be a problem with the controllers? Since we wanted the bathroom to be the warmest, we were supposed to turn it up to 6 in the bathroom, and then the temperature of the heating system was adjusted accordingly. We were then supposed to turn down the other rooms. That was the instruction from the heating engineer. And I don't need heating in the bedrooms. And since there is no off on the controllers - 1.

Yes, sorry, of course kWh.
The heating element is off.

That somehow doesn’t add up.
Which Vitacol do you have exactly? There are A04 to A10.
Even the large model should need a maximum of 2.77kW under normal conditions at A-7/35.
You can only reach such values without the heating element if the thing is running at the highest setting, and then you’d have 30 degrees throughout the whole house.

I just checked, the room controllers in the bathroom and living room are between 4-5, in all other rooms at 1. Do you mean that?

That’s a problem. With that, you’re trying to heat your entire house just through the bathroom.
That makes the heat pump like an engine running at full throttle while you’re pulling the handbrake on three of four wheels, and then you wonder why you don’t move forward.
You have to keep in mind that a house only has insulation on the outside and not between the rooms.

Do you know about this and can help us?

Yep, but you will either have to deal with it yourself or get an expert to come and do the basic settings, like adjusting the heating element, heating curve, hydraulic balancing, etc.

There are repeatedly problems with the heat pumps, as it is a very complex topic.

In your case, I see a completely wrong heating concept, or rather the wrong components. However, you should consult a specialist. Not every heating engineer has the necessary expertise for this.

Nevertheless, I see the problem with your buffer tank that the hot water generation is done using an electric instantaneous water heater. In addition, the hot water storage tank only stores exactly these 56 liters. Therefore, I am not surprised by the high electricity consumption.

How many people live in the house? How much hot water is consumed daily? And 250 sqm of living space need to be heated first, even with good insulation.

That somehow doesn’t fit together.
Which Vitacol do you have exactly? There are A04 to A10.
Even the large model should only need A-7/35 max 2.77kW under normal conditions.
You can only reach such values without a heating element if the thing runs at the highest level, and then you have 30 degrees throughout the whole house.

That is a problem. With that, you’re trying to heat your entire house only through the bathroom.
That makes the heat pump like an engine running at full throttle while you’re pulling the handbrake on three out of four wheels and then wonder why you don’t move forward.
You have to keep in mind that a house only has insulation on the outside and not between the rooms.

Yeah, but you will either have to deal with it yourself or get an expert to come who will just set the basic settings, such as adjusting the heating element, heating curve, hydraulic balancing, etc.

Here’s a picture.

Yes, I would like to have the expert because we neither have the time nor the desire to waste more energy on it. But no one is coming. I have gone through all the heating companies in the area, no one comes because we still have a warranty. Even though we say we will pay for it.