Air-water heat pump combined with underfloor heating does not work properly

Not dumb at all, because there is no switch for that. You actually have to disconnect the cables from the motors. Not everyone just does that.

Or take a look in the fuse box: With us, the actuating valves are separately fused.

Not dumb at all, because there is no switch for that. You actually have to disconnect the cables from the motors. Not everyone just does that. Step one should be a visit to the heating installer. He should perform a hydraulic balancing if it hasn’t been done yet. Then you can search here or generally on the internet for "thermal balancing." This is a topic for several days if not weeks, since a underfloor heating system, as already mentioned above by , responds very slowly.

If your heating plumber and electrician have talked to each other, the actuators are connected to a separate circuit breaker. Then you just have to remove the fuse and remove the actuators. This also saves money over the course of the year.

Furthermore, a lot of information is missing. Is there a heating load calculation, room-by-room heating load calculation? Calculation of heating surfaces (installation spacing, flow rate at NAT), were desired temperatures asked for the room-by-room heating load calculation, was a max supply temperature agreed upon for NAT? I suspect from many stories here in construction with a general contractor that this has not happened and at most a pro forma design of the underfloor heating from the underfloor heating system manufacturer according to schema F with a supply temperature of 35°C was made.

What does the hydraulics of the system look like before the HKV? Does the heat pump heat directly into the underfloor heating (optimal situation), is there a heating circuit buffer, how is it installed? Especially here many efficiency killers lurk, keyword separation buffer, combination buffer/stratification tank, bypass valves. If you have read up well and familiarized yourself with your system, you will usually be able to achieve efficient operation, but you have to abandon the idea of really achieving something in every room just by a short turn on a room controller. Heat pump with underfloor heating in a new build means setting the desired temperatures for the individual rooms (within narrow limits) once, adjusting and optimizing the system in the first 2 winters, and only dealing with the heating again when replacing the heat pump hopefully after >15 years.

I do not see the decision against district heating as a mistake if you also care about heating costs. District heating combined with underfloor heating is also a slow system in a new build.

Do you have shading on the windows?

Regards

How is the house insulated?

A good thermal envelope makes large temperature differences inside virtually impossible.

You would then have to insulate the interior walls, and that is actually never done.

Ultimately, the recommendation here is to either ignore the ERR (single room control) (permanent max setting) or even deactivate it by unscrewing the actuators from the heating circuit distributor or switching them off (only for off: on)

I intend to set the ERRs to permanent max.
Is the behavior then the same as the "power-off option," or would it ultimately be better to actually remove the actuators?

Do I understand correctly that there are different versions regarding the state (ON or OFF) when switched off?

Do I understand correctly that there are different versions regarding the state (OPEN or CLOSED) during power outage?

Yes, exactly, that exists. I therefore turned off the actuators because otherwise I would have to supply them with power permanently to keep them open.

Ugeen, before you mourn the district heating, just familiarize yourself a little with the topic and then I believe you will come to appreciate the advantages of the existing system. You just have to detach yourself from previous habits and the corresponding logic. Afterwards, you will probably experience even better comfort than you are used to.