Empty conduits on the property - ideas? - It's not too late yet :)

So I quickly made the planning now.
1 x valve box with 4 valves and compressed air connection
1 x valve box with 5 valves and compressed air connection
17 x housing PRS40
10 x MP2000 90°-210°
2 x MP3000 90°-210°
3 x MP right strip
2 x MP left strip
2 x water socket
approx. 150 meters drip irrigation (Dripline)
The fittings and the lines to the boxes and to the sprinklers/drip lines are still to be added.

All circuits have sufficient reserve to connect one or two more sprinklers (depending on the type) if the garden changes.
If you do without water sockets, you would have one valve left each. The tree in the back has extra irrigation because it probably has a significantly different water requirement than the bushes. A root irrigation could also be used here.
You can adjust the rotators down by 25% in the range. So don’t be fooled by the representation that the house gets wet. You probably also still have an eaves strip.

So I quickly did the planning now.
1 x Valve box with 4 valves and compressed air connection
1 x Valve box with 5 valves and compressed air connection
17 x Housing PRS40
10 x MP2000 90°-210°
2 x MP3000 90°-210°
3 x MP right strip
2 x MP left strip
2 x Water can
approx. 150 meters drip irrigation (Dripline)
Additionally, the fittings and the pipes to the boxes and to the sprinklers/drip lines will be needed

All circuits have sufficient reserve to connect one or two more sprinklers (depending on the type) in case the garden changes.
If you do without water cans, you would have one valve left over each. The tree in the back has separate irrigation because it probably has a significantly different water requirement than the bushes. Here, root irrigation could also be used.
You can set the rotators to 25% less range. So don’t be fooled by the illustration that the house gets wet. You probably also have an eaves strip.
...

How cool are you?
Thank you very much for that!
- Water cans are great. Perfectly placed in the front garden. Probably more sensible further away in the back since there is a water tap 4m next to it.
- Why is the 5-valve box in the middle of the garden? Wouldn't it be more sensible to hide it? I understand that from a pressure point of view it makes most sense in the middle, but how do you bury it so that you can still access it?
- What are the blue boxes on the left?
- Regarding compressed air connection: I take it I will connect a compressor in the fall and blow through once, right?
- How should I best supply the 4-valve box with water? Outdoor faucet on that side too?
- What do you estimate the whole fun will cost in total? I’ll make a shopping list tomorrow.

You're welcome

You can place the water outlets wherever you want. You're only running a DN25 line from the distribution box to the outlet. If you already have a faucet there, you could also skip it and go for a 4-valve box. Or stay with 5 valves and have a spare circuit, for example for container irrigation on the terrace.

The position of the valve box is not fixed. But considering the circuits, the current position is quite good.
For the boxes, you dig a hole, put in gravel, place the grid bottom of the box, then the box on top. The whole thing should be flush with the ground or slightly recessed. The box has a removable lid so you can access all valves and the air pressure connection. The lid is green. After a year you won't even notice it if there is grass around it.

The blue boxes are the rectangular sprinklers. MP right strip and MP left strip.
The two large semicircles at the terrace and opposite are the MP3000.
The others are the MP2000.

Wintering as you described: close the main valve at the box. Attach the compressor and then blow out circuit by circuit. Like during an irrigation cycle but without water.

I would connect the boxes directly with DN25 pipes. So out of the house and underground directly to the boxes. Theoretically, you could also run from one box to the other. It's just longer than going under the house. Since the circuits are calculated conservatively, that is certainly an option. So from the rear box a DN25 line to the front box.
In any case, I would not branch off from an outdoor faucet. It always looks bad when there’s a pipe running along the wall into the ground. Did you want to connect directly at the faucet or branch off?
The question is also how big the line to the faucet is. Often outdoor faucets are only 1/2 inch.
Better to have a separate line. The pipe itself costs nothing...

In my listing I still forgot the two control lines (one 5-core and one 6-core).
You have a shopping list now. With that, you can fill the cart in the shops.
In addition, some meters of DN25 pipe, fittings, possibly sprinkler connectors.
There are fully pre-assembled sets here (expensive) or individual parts. Just like with the valve boxes.
You also need adjustment keys for rotators and scissors for cutting the pipes.
Without having calculated it exactly, maybe around 1,500€.

great input. Thank you very much. I will probably go with Hunter as well

Is there anything against the following solution?
- 10-way valve box costs 710,-. In comparison, a 4-way and 5-way cost a total of 1010,- and even have one water circuit less.
- with that, I could branch off the line in the utility room that leads to the outdoor water tap and route it via the garage to the 10-way valve box (otherwise I would have to branch twice for two lines?)
- the yellow empty conduit could already be laid by the trenching contractor (100mm KG pipe), so I could lay the 3x 25mm PE pipes there.
- Ölflex control cable from the garage UV to the valve box wouldn’t be far either. DIN rail power supply Comatec 24V AC also in the garage UV + Opensprinkler computer or KNX switching actuator, we’ll see.

Great work, based on your plan/example I’m going to plan my garden too, is there anything to consider on a slope? You really have a 90m³ (in words ninety cubic) cistern ops:??