What to prepare for automatic irrigation

Hello,
due to recent developments, I'm asking once more just to be sure if I have correctly understood your tips (from this and the other threads).

So:
- I ask the plumber to lay a pipe from the utility/technical room directly outside (so the pipe should be as short as possible)
- he should use a pipe with a properly sized diameter (that would probably be 3/4 inch???)
- the garden water meter, which must be connected to the pipe network (municipal regulation), should be located in the utility/technical room and also be 3/4 inch
- outside faucet also 3/4 inch

Is that correct so far???

One more question: does an outside faucet like in the photo make sense? I would find it good because one outlet can be used for the irrigation controller and the other is free for handwashing etc.

Thanks and already thanks for your help!

basically, much of what you plan is correct. 3/4 inch is fine. It is important that your water meter(s) are also 3/4 (25mm) inch, otherwise you will have additional losses. As already mentioned, you theoretically get about 2,400 liters/hour through a 3/4 inch pipe. With pipe losses, you can expect about 2,000 liters/hour. You could use a faucet like this. The irrigation is run in the very early morning hours. Simultaneous irrigation and withdrawal at the second branch is not possible because then there is not enough water left for the irrigation. This is not a problem in the short term because the sprinklers retract and as soon as enough water is available again, they raise again. Unfortunately, you have not yet written anything about your property and planned garden. Based on your statements, I assume you mean a Gardena-like irrigation computer that you simply attach to the faucet. However, it can only control a maximum of two zones. That is usually too little. You only have 2,000 liters per hour available. Depending on the system used, that is not much. For example, only one zone for lawn and one zone drip irrigation for hedges. It is better to install a cistern with replenishment right away. In it, a well-dimensioned pump. In all cases, I would recommend you forget the Gardena irrigation computer and bury a valve box in the ground. From the faucet, you lay the pipe to the valve box and distribute further from there. You also lead a control line to it (number of wires = number of valves +1). This way, you can realize multiple zones. As an irrigation computer, I recommend for example Hunter Hydrawise with 6 zones. If you need more, simply get a larger one or later with an expansion module. Controllable via app and web and access to weather stations. Additionally, if desired, you can also connect sensors. However, in most cases, that is not necessary. If you lead an empty conduit through the wall right away, you can use the irrigation computer for indoor (cheaper). At this location, you need a power outlet and WiFi. The control line is also led to the computer. If you don’t make a conduit, you take the outdoor version. Power, WiFi, and control line feed then to this location. If you have questions, just get in touch.

Good morning,

I'll try to describe how we solved it.

We buried a 7500L cistern in the garden, which is supposed to be fed not only by rainwater but also via the drainage pipes. There is a powerful automatic pressure pump installed with almost 6 bar (unfortunately currently broken), which is fed by a 1-inch groundwater pipe (the normal ones, the same as used for your house connection). From there, we go into the house via a T-piece to supply the outdoor taps with cistern water and then continue into the garage. There, I installed and plastered a leftover underfloor heating manifold box into the wall. The valves for the sprinklers, which can be controlled via a radio actuator, go in there. From the manifold, I run a 25mm pipe (we used a normal water pipe, but the Gardena lay-flat pipe also works) towards the sprinklers. I haven't built further yet, as the garden will be done next year.

For example, you could replace the manifold in the wall with a floor manifold in the garden. It is important that you install infiltration. This means that if you, for example, turn off the pump in winter, the remaining water in the pipe seeps into the ground and your pipes cannot burst.

A "normal" water pipe is more stable and cheaper than Gardena. You don’t need infiltration because you blow out the pipes and sprinkler heads with compressed air at the end of the season. Have you already planned your garden? Do you know how many zones you need? How much water does your pump really deliver? 6 bar doesn’t say much at first. The volume also matters. Since it is located in a cistern, there is immediately a 2-meter height difference... You also have to run electricity to the valves even if they are controlled wirelessly. Expensive and not sensible. It reads as if you have given it some thought but have taken a few wrong turns. Have you considered the required system separator for the refilling of the cistern?

@Grantlhaua "normal" water piping is more stable and cheaper than Gardena.

I just requested what we still had from the house construction at home, so the normal 25mm PVC pipes that are usually installed indoors.

Have you already planned your garden? Do you know how many zones you need?

No, but I simply laid as many pipes as fit through my 100mm KG pipe (I have to go under the garage). That means I have a connection for 4 zones and could lay more if necessary, since our garage will be paved. So I can always pull more lines through the garage if needed.

How much water does your pump actually deliver? 6 bar doesn't say anything yet. The volume also matters. Since it is in a cistern, there's immediately a 2-meter height difference....

As far as I remember, about 6000L/h at 10m delivery height (I have maybe 3m).

You have to run power to the valves even if they are controlled wirelessly. Expensive and not sensible.

I installed 2 sockets with electrical boxes exactly above the control box and laid empty conduits between the box and sockets. I will charge the batteries of my tools at these sockets.

Have you considered the required system separator for the refilling of the cistern?

I have a pump shaft for the drainage and, if anything, supply drainage water. Fresh water for the cistern is therefore not planned, and if so, via a normal outdoor faucet.

But I just wanted to give, for example, a few tips on how I solved it.

So, by chance the better variant was chosen for the pipes. Regarding the pump. A pump with 6 bar cannot manage a 10 meter height difference. Take a look at your pump diagram to see how much water it delivers at 3-4 meters. Maybe you can upgrade your defective one to a more suitable model. If necessary, you can also branch off behind the garage and install another valve box with control there. There seems to be reserves available. How do you control the valves? Surely you don't want to press them manually all the time?