I don't understand why this question is essential?
Because many decisions about the equipment depend on the plot of land. It is rarely possible to say in general: save this, save that… take for example the lifting system, which you say you don't need. If you had a plan including contour lines and access road, one could address that you don't need it. As it is now, it's back and forth questioning, which can ultimately annoy you and others. In the end, there are no constructive answers. I go even further, saying you need to know who wants to move in there, how old and with how many people (children). Because that decides, for example, how much hallway area must be created and whether at all. With living areas, i.e. the floor plan, you can control a lot of costs. Or how big the hot water tank needs to be… That brings us to this statement:
Minimizing costs for the actual planning with the architect, if we show up there with a realistic, well thought-out plan, surely saves a few thousand euros…
A layman does not plan optimized, mostly either wastefully with room sizes or so that it works suboptimally. So it makes sense to let the professional do it. He gets the money anyway - whether he thinks himself now or lets the client think - he puts his name under it.
A steep slope inevitably leads to a full floor basement (if it’s just stilts, of course not).
Built in one meter, two meters out. Split level is more expensive, though more useful.
Converting prefabricated houses according to our wishes is just as expensive as working right away with an .
No. You don’t convert, but take a general contractor (GU), who usually moves walls and windows cost-neutral already in planning.
Doing most of the interior work yourself (walls, floors, tiles, bathroom (only the tiles!) and terraces in the outdoor area – sufficient craftsmanship skills are available!
For most things I agree with you. Doors belong to that as well. You should have the tiles done professionally. That takes time… and time in interior finishing costs a lot, often in five-digit ranges.
Should an independent expert inspect the trades? Or is that a waste of money with a GU/architect house?
An expert should definitely be called in.
Should the building contract be reviewed by a lawyer?
The expert also checks the contract. So the expert should be commissioned early – before signing.
We’d rather invest in interior finishing than in
Somehow not. You want to do many things yourself, and that often means that it shows somewhere.
Which things are often installed without real benefit? (e.g. a laundry chute, a central vacuum system, automatic blinds, etc.)
and a pantry
You don't need a pantry if you have good kitchen planning (available free from the kitchen manufacturer or in a forum if you want to assemble an Ikea kitchen yourself, for example). I’d put it this way: down-to-earth should be cost-effective building. You don’t need the newest technology, but it doesn’t have to be outdated either. You don’t have to plan for “in 25 years,” the current standard and what you need now should be enough: no empty conduits, but LAN nonetheless, not 10 sockets in the bedroom but 5, and use multiple sockets for PC/TV, SAT – you have to check your own TV behavior there. Indirect lighting also works with a floor lamp, no recessed spots, outdoor lighting minimal and not every 2 meters, no air space, no gallery, no expensive concealed sliding doors, instead standard sizes and running doors, no big tiles, no lift-and-slide door, etc.
such as a laundry chute
You are fond of it ;) I would also see it as superfluous.
Does it have to be an expensive branded roof? Isn't the cheap one enough?
You can gladly take concrete tiles.
There are also massive price ranges for stairs, windows, doors, facades, roof coverings.
I put it this way: almost everyone wants to build cost-efficiently. For that, you don’t have to reinvent the house…
Simple building shape (rectangle), simple gable roof construction * No unnecessary building technology (ventilation, "smarthome", ...) * Minimize large window areas * Only one carport and no * Which construction type (timber frame, Holz100, solid brick) is still open – my preference is timber frame/Holz100. * Well planned once is cheaper than planning 2-x times * Double checked is cheaper than once botched building and correcting it. * A Swedish stove is nice, but a chimney is expensive.
…, - Plain building shape is standard when it comes to cost efficiency. - Large window areas do not get more expensive than masonry walls above a certain size. For us, it was 4 sqm for cost-neutrality. - a good planner can cost-neutrally plan the house x times until it fits. I would start right here:
Briefly about our project: ~120m2 (two floors),
Two floors creates a small tower, hardly an approach for efficient storage areas with that size. 60 sqm per floor, that invites to kneel down. Since neither the plot size nor the building envelope is known yet (see topic on essentials), I still suggest a single floor plus converted gable roof (e.g. 26-30 degrees roof pitch without sand-lime brick): the roof can later, when there is a child, be converted for children’s rooms, well walkable storage space, and hobby/office room. On the ground floor parents, living area and technical room. With 85/90 sqm you get well by, in the roof you then get 40/50 sqm, expanded as needed. If you want to build cost-efficiently and save, then take a general contractor of the cheap class, build according to the Building Energy Act minimum standard and stick to their scope of services, which frequently equips a standard house in a common way. Many upgrade this standard – if you do not want that, then you simply don’t do it, but you get a house which is habitable: no foiled windows, a 200L hot water tank, possibly an outdoor faucet as well as an outdoor lamp at the terrace and entrance, analog doorbell, shower tray, no rain shower, Q2 walls, but underfloor heating and a two-way switch in the corridor/stairs, electrical cabinet, standard bathtub and two toilets (bathroom and WC). Even the tile splashback will be included with laying. The simplest sockets can be converted to double sockets themselves, I would have sanitary work done because of the warranty.