Sealing of floor-to-ceiling windows from the outside

Cool ...how did you proceed? Pictures?

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Hello experts!

Since the thread fits the topic and is already older, I hope it’s okay to use it for my own question!?

Our house builder made us aware of the topic "sealing of exterior walls" or rather "drainage in the terrace area." More precisely, we had to sign that we were informed about the topic and commit ourselves to comply with the requirements (see attachment) during the construction execution. Otherwise, the warranty is lost.

My main concern is the compliance with the minimum height of 10 cm required here. We are not happy with that and actually envisioned a threshold-free entrance/exit. Therefore, the question is to what extent this requirement is actually relevant in practice, provided that:

1. drainage channels/drains are installed in front of the terrace doors
2. the terrace is not paved but laid out with decking boards

So what should oppose a threshold-free construction here!?
What is this nonsense about "exemption from claims for damages"—when everyone talks about "barrier-free construction"...!?

Thanks in advance!

With a drainage channel and a construction with wooden decking or pedestal supports, I would personally also reduce the minimum height, or have already implemented it this way (finished floor = terrace surface edge on pedestal, on the ground floor with only a few cm height difference between inside and outside), so far without problems.

Basically, with this execution there is a residual risk of unintentional flooding from higher snow piling up on the drainage channel, or during heavy rain in combination with a clogged channel. In my view, this is a calculable risk if one is willing to clean the channel occasionally.

The a.R.d.T thus define a still safe variant – the one with the unpleasant 10 cm height difference.

It is supposed to be according to DIN ... but does it have to be the DIN? The main thing is that it is tight.

Is there really no other good alternative?

Regards

I am/was also facing the problem. Brickwork etc. My site manager, also an expert, told me that the roofer can also do something with so-called zinc pockets. I would ask him about that. That’s how I will do it.

With a drainage channel and a construction with wooden decking or pedestals, I would personally also reduce the minimum height, or have already implemented it that way (finished floor = terrace surface edge on pedestals, on the ground floor with only a few centimeters height difference between inside and outside), so far without problems.

Basically, in this version there is a residual risk of involuntary flooding in case of higher snow piling up on the drainage channel, or heavy rain combined with a clogged channel. In my opinion, a calculable risk if you are willing to clean the channel from time to time.

The a.R.d.T thus define a still safe variant – the one with the unsightly 10 cm height difference.

Thanks for your contribution, unfortunately I'm only reading it now :(

For us, it is therefore a question of weighing up whether to accept the "calculable risk" by installing a wide drainage channel and building without the 10 cm height difference, or whether we have to live with the height difference after all. With the requirement of the latter, the house builder, as I understand it, is only protecting himself. Because it states here: No installation according to DIN (height difference) = no warranty...

Personally, I also tend to build the terrace without a height difference despite timber frame + clinker.
With WPC + drainage channel + everything covered, the risk should be very limited. Or am I overlooking something here that should be especially considered with timber frame construction?

There must be a reasonable solution, also taking into account the "warranty conditions from the house manufacturer," if barrier-free construction is recommended everywhere anyway!?

Hello experts,

I have to dig up the topic again. We are currently building by ourselves and made a mistake with the base waterproofing and the connection to the floor-to-ceiling windows.

Current condition see photo. You can see the reactive coating on the back wall.

We applied the base waterproofing as a reactive coating but unfortunately forgot the tape for the connection to the window frames. The brick facade is already finished. How can we properly fix the waterproofing now with little effort?

Thank you very much for the tips.