Golfi90
2020-01-30 19:26:07
- #1
with material ?
With material...
Sealing of floor-to-ceiling windows from the outside
- Erstellt am 2020-01-07 12:13:05
With material...
tumaa
2020-01-30 19:28:40
- #2
ok, good price .......the roofer told me that there must be at least 30cm free, usually a clinker brick, I would be a bit cautious there.With material...
Golfi90
2020-01-30 19:49:31
- #3
According to our general contractor, everything is already sealed correctly and approved by the TÜV. I only want the additional sealing on the outside for my own peace of mind.
Tx-25
2020-02-20 08:36:15
- #4
(of course also everyone else) What has happened to the processes with you now? I have exactly the same problem.
Our friend who is a roofer pointed out to me that our doors are not sealed behind the clinker. After consulting with our general contractor and the window manufacturer, we cut away about 4 cm from the bottom 3 clinker bricks on the right and left. We are now behind the strip for the blinds there. Then the base should be taped off, including all around in front of the front sides of the cut clinker bricks. A thick coat of bitumen sealant is then applied all around the house on the taped area. Without knowing better (thought the problem was solved), I asked our roofer to do the taping. He told me that my general contractor and the window manufacturer must have been drinking paint and that it does not help either. According to him, there MUST be a seal behind the clinker. Accordingly, he does not touch anything. The general contractor and window manufacturer shrug their shoulders. It is the wind-driven rain side, without a roof with a terrace in front.
I do not quite understand yet where the water can penetrate if I tape the base, lay the membrane all around in front of the clinker, and then continue with bitumen? I have read the PDF "the forgotten connection" and now also know what the problem is and where a hole arises. Water has already penetrated on my side during wind-driven rain (there is still no sealing yet). What I do not understand is where water should come from if we seal it completely all around in front of the clinker as described above.
Our friend who is a roofer pointed out to me that our doors are not sealed behind the clinker. After consulting with our general contractor and the window manufacturer, we cut away about 4 cm from the bottom 3 clinker bricks on the right and left. We are now behind the strip for the blinds there. Then the base should be taped off, including all around in front of the front sides of the cut clinker bricks. A thick coat of bitumen sealant is then applied all around the house on the taped area. Without knowing better (thought the problem was solved), I asked our roofer to do the taping. He told me that my general contractor and the window manufacturer must have been drinking paint and that it does not help either. According to him, there MUST be a seal behind the clinker. Accordingly, he does not touch anything. The general contractor and window manufacturer shrug their shoulders. It is the wind-driven rain side, without a roof with a terrace in front.
I do not quite understand yet where the water can penetrate if I tape the base, lay the membrane all around in front of the clinker, and then continue with bitumen? I have read the PDF "the forgotten connection" and now also know what the problem is and where a hole arises. Water has already penetrated on my side during wind-driven rain (there is still no sealing yet). What I do not understand is where water should come from if we seal it completely all around in front of the clinker as described above.
tumaa
2020-02-20 09:50:09
- #5
Some roofers also told me that a few bricks need to be removed, but that is not an option for me at the moment.
Alternatively: one can only cut out some of the Styrofoam, since liquid plastic does not really adhere to Styrofoam, then my bricks in the base area should be grouted and the area around the outside of the house should then be completely sealed, I believe with a dimpled membrane or a so-called "reactivation."
I was told that it can all stay like this for now, as long as it remains free like that.......I want to save money and do it in the end.
Alternatively: one can only cut out some of the Styrofoam, since liquid plastic does not really adhere to Styrofoam, then my bricks in the base area should be grouted and the area around the outside of the house should then be completely sealed, I believe with a dimpled membrane or a so-called "reactivation."
I was told that it can all stay like this for now, as long as it remains free like that.......I want to save money and do it in the end.
Tx-25
2020-02-20 10:20:55
- #6
Here are a few more pictures:
Before:
After:
The general contractor/mason has already smoothed the sides and the area in front of the base. This is not yet visible in the pictures.
Before:
After:
The general contractor/mason has already smoothed the sides and the area in front of the base. This is not yet visible in the pictures.