Mold problem in new kitchen - how to prevent it in the future?

There are cabinet fans.
Try searching for AC Infinity on Google.

Cabinet fans are nice and all - but nothing there that would fit in terms of dimensions.. So I have to make something myself and currently have the following in mind:

[*]Since the ventilation grille under the refrigerator is 40cm wide, five 80mm fans fit side by side. Ideally, wire them so that they always run when the refrigerator compressor is running. Tapping phase and neutral at the compressor control should be no problem, connect a 12V power supply and the fans to it. [*]As strange as I initially found the idea, I can imagine that it helps to remove the right side panel of the cabinet (at least mostly). This will more than double the air gap to the wall from 1 to 2.5 cm. Together with the aforementioned fans, this should significantly improve air exchange. I’m attaching a picture showing the cabinet during assembly and how the right side panel basically hangs directly against the wall. I also find it a bit strange that there is barely any space above where the warm air from the heat exchanger can properly escape... [*]Above the refrigerator, a wall opening with an intelligent ventilation/exhaust system that regulates itself based on the room humidity. This point especially because airing is really difficult in this kitchen: The window in the recess cannot be opened and the terrace door only opens outward - without a tilt function. No other windows.

If all this fails and has no effect, the thing will be removed, the wall insulated from the inside, and a 55cm freestanding refrigerator put there.

The bottom of the cabinet usually stands on supports. The remaining side panel is to be screwed half-height to the adjacent side panel and then also stands stable, even more stable than before. To prevent the top panel from falling down, you make an angle bracket on the outer wall on which it rests or is screwed. For the doors, you have to attach a suitable strip (240 cm x 5 cm x 1.6 cm or similar), that is certainly the biggest craftwork involved. Alternatively, you can also remove 95% of the side panel with a jigsaw, so that only the front part for the hinges remains. Of course, the rest must be screwed to the wall so that it doesn't break off.

As absurd as I initially found your suggestion, I now want to implement it (in addition to other measures). ;):) I believe it is most practical to remove only the majority of the side panel and leave a narrow strip standing at the front along the full height (I think that's what you meant in the last paragraph). Nothing needs to remain for the hinges, as they are not attached to the cabinet. However, the question now arises where and how much of the side panel should be removed with the jigsaw so that a certain residual stability remains, to 1. move the whole construct back to the intended position without it collapsing, and 2. so that the refrigerator within the cabinet is also securely held in place and does not shift. Maybe you have some good tips based on the picture I posted last. Regards N

Hard to say, I would just saw out generously in a hands-on way and then screw the rest to the wall with brackets. If the refrigerator shifts, I would use 1-2 wooden blocks as spacers between the wall and the refrigerator. You can just saw out a little bit first and see how that affects the stability.

Such a plan is easy said. The first cut into the nice cabinet takes courage.

Addendum: Is part of this tile splashback or whatever that is going to be removed as well?

I’m not really hesitant to cut up the thing, because the alternative means purchasing a new freestanding fridge, and then the old cabinet won’t be needed anyway. The piece of the tile backsplash there doesn’t serve any function, but I rather didn’t want to remove it. Because the problems were not behind the fridge but next to it.