Mold problem in new kitchen - how to prevent it in the future?

- Calculating the dew point with ubakus - please what?!

Sure, here is an example for 240mm sand-lime brick.
The hardest part is always choosing the right material.
It even states in text form how the risk of mold development in the wall structure is.

- Removing the side wall from the carcass - how is the construction supposed to stand then??

The base of the carcass usually stands on supports.
The remaining side wall is screwed half-height to the adjacent side wall and then also stands stable, even more stable than before.
To prevent the top panel from falling down, you attach an angle bracket to the outer wall on which it rests or is screwed.
For the doors you have to install a suitable strip (240 cm x 5 cm x 1.6 cm or similar), that is certainly the biggest bit of tinkering involved.

Alternatively, you can also remove 95% of the side wall with a jigsaw, so that only the front part for the hinges remains. Of course, the rest must be screwed to the wall so that it doesn’t break away.

No proof is provided at all. How could it be, nothing is specified.

Typical mistake of energy consultants who believe that the Energieeinsparverordnung/Gebäudeenergiegesetz software would provide a hydrothermal proof for interior insulation.

OK thanks for the explanations. But that fails with ubakus because I have no idea what kind of materials these are. The ones from last year could still be found out, but the rest from 1970 - no chance. And the thing about removing the side panel... that only gains the thickness of the wall, about 1.5 cm. Behind it is then directly the cooling device. So much effort to widen the gap by 1.5 cm?

No proof is provided at all. How could it be, nothing is specified.

That doesn't have to happen at all. We are only looking for ways for the OP and indications of what may or may not be sensible. Bringing in a professional now and spending a lot of money just to be told "move the refrigerator somewhere else" is not productive.

@

If an incorrect result comes up, it's simply useless.
I don't know the software any further either, and I couldn't find any closer information on the homepage.

But it's easy to test, same setup: exterior plaster, stone, interior plaster, then once mineral wool 5cm with WLG 035 and alternatively HWL 5cm with WLG 035.
And see what the two results are.

So much effort for widening the gap by 1.5cm?

Yes, why not? Additionally, there is also the option to chip the plaster off the wall. You just have to allow for air circulation, and for that you need space.
You don’t want the other simpler options like moving the device away from the wall or buying a narrower device either ;)