Laying parquet, in which direction?

I had the impression when laying parquet that floors with an MDF core layer form slightly fewer joints than those with solid wood. Frank, joints can also occur with floating floors. Installation is always from left to right, that is, tongue towards the wall, regardless of whether floating or glued. Before laying, you should check how many planks you need for the length of the room. This is important so that you have about the same plank width at the beginning and end. It may well be necessary to saw the first row. When gluing, it is important to prepare the first three rows in advance, so to speak. In your case, you start at the wall on the left side of the plan and work your way towards the column. Necessary cutouts should also be prepared before applying the adhesive. For the column, you can either use a contour template or make one out of cardboard. As a finish at the column, there are flexible floor profiles or use liquid cork (of course, work very carefully here). Then you must of course pay attention to suitable adhesive and the notched trowel to be used (mostly TKB B9). Please be sure to follow the parquet manufacturer's specifications here. So, if I have accidentally written something incorrectly or forgotten anything, please correct and add. Sent with my handheld device link removed by moderation _________________________ Construction expert

Hello Neige,
thank you very much, I understand, very good tip, I wouldn't have thought of that, it would be bad if the end board is only 2 cm wide, that's why the first board should be cut to size already.

The tiler had determined that there is a kind of dried cement/gypsum slurry on the screed. That would have to be milled off the floors to be tiled. Probably on the parquet as well.
-Will I be able to sand that off with my sanding giraffe and mesh?
-Does the floor have to be primed before the adhesive is applied?

Best regards, Frank

Whether you need to use Tiefengrund depends on the condition of the substrate. In the cases where I installed, everything was always prepared by the screed layerer. As for the dried cement/gypsum slurry, can surely help you better. Sent from my mobile device

There is dried cement/gypsum slurry present, which certainly needs to be removed. I have a floor grinder; can you successfully remove the floor with such a mesh on the grinder?

Hello "Werschtl". I’ll say it cautiously: If I were on site, I would look your tiler long and intently in the eyes if he said anything in this regard! Is it meat or fish? One should be able to distinguish whether it is a cement screed or CAS. And "sludge" would always be a sign of overwatering of the fresh mortar, which would, however, only affect the cement screed. But all this seems to me to miss the point, because these so-called "hard shells," which had to be milled off many years ago when the flow screeds first came onto the market (and it only happened with those), (and that was a defect removal, the screed layer was responsible), concerned or concern only and exclusively new screed surfaces. Because old screeds were already or are covered with a floor covering and the floor layer at that time was the first to be confronted with the problem and probably took the screed layer “on board.” With a sanding grid that would in any case be impossible to manage! Proper "technology" is needed for that, and not "do-it-yourself" tools. A cleaning grind with a maximum 16 grit is usual. Again: with new calcium sulfate flow screeds, the problem occurred years ago. Due to the modification of the receptors, however, this is now a thing of the past and hardly occurs today (due to formulation). -------------------- Regards: KlaRa

Thank you, the construction description says "floating heated screed" So should I report this as a defect? Even though I am not an expert, I can see, especially in the areas where people walk, that small flakes are coming off. The tiler has a special machine and would sand it off.

Best regards Frank