House entrance with curved roof

I also don't think that fits with the rest.

"Fits" is a flexible term. Much that "fits" is deadly boring. There is also such a thing as skillful eclecticism.

Before I would start with the canopy, I would personally start with the concrete slabs or the terracotta tiles.

If I intended to do both the path and the canopy, I would start with the canopy just like . To me, it looks as if the entrance is getting a fool's cap.

Electicism ... I had to look it up ... Different systems, reassembled as "needed" ... One sentence about it on Wikipedia: Test everything and keep what is good! I like that Although: subjectively I completely redesigned the roof shape. Nothing was adopted there. ... but I am also aware that for such purposes (a house entrance) you can't really invent anything new anymore ... it has all been done before. What I like to (try to) find are shapes that bring joy. And of course I start from my own feelings ... Regarding the concern mentioned several times above that the water might not drain properly: Under the house roof, the porch starts at the same angle, so it slopes away from the house. The "fool's peak" stands high at the front. Water cannot run there either. The lowest points are on the right and left – where the water will drain – about 2.50 meters apart. I hope – and assume – to enter the house with dry feet

If you cut, shape, and then weld two thicker sheets with a central seam, you don’t need an understructure. It just has to be done quite precisely, but then it’s a craft highlight. I wouldn’t worry about the rainwater. I wouldn’t keep the roof width at 1m at a distance of 1m, then at least with not too strong wind there should be a dry place to search for keys in the rain.

ONLY from thick sheet metal? I hadn’t thought about that until now ... Good idea for further consideration. My locksmith/blacksmith friend doesn't like working with stainless steel material, so I have been assuming galvanized steel so far (which can be painted gray to black with a special very durable paint). However, that would mean that the part must first be welded, then transported into the zinc bath, and then lifted back again. Or I might forgo the zinc. Then I would have pleasingly more choice in colors, but such a paint must always be refurbished. Also, the sheet metal would have to be bent as precisely as possible before welding ... I think 3 millimeters thickness would be storm-proof ... below that I don’t know (from a feeling). Neither I nor my friend can bend thick sheet metal (for that you need a sheet metal bending machine). This machine would also be needed for stainless steel sheet. One could also provide a thinner sheet metal with an edge ... but that has the disadvantage that it "rattles" loudly when it rains. (if there is wood under the sheet metal, that somewhat absorbs it) Hmm ... do I want to think further about this? Thanks for the stimulus ... I also fear that the bend could not be made with a roll bending machine (as I know it), because the bend is "larger" on one side than on the other ...

Hi

Cool idea
I would manufacture/have it manufactured in 2 parts from aluminum on a roll stretching machine.
A flange to the wall for mounting, weld in the middle and support with two braces on the rafters.
Then powder coat the whole thing in a bright color.


Olli

I just spoke with someone about "pulverizing." For that, the whole part would need to go to a "pulverizing company." The thing is at least 3 meters by 2.5. That's too much effort for me. To bend such large surfaces made of thicker sheet metal, you need companies specialized in that. They do exist, but they cost accordingly. I am well aware that the whole operation won't be cheap, but I want to keep it as reasonable as possible. What I like about "my" idea is that a sheet metal can basically be formed "easily" like that. One direction always remains straight; no three-dimensional bending is necessary. At the moment, my considerations are heading toward a steel substructure divided in the middle — which would still be transportable in terms of size and could be galvanized by a company. This frame consists of 42 mm pipe. That — according to my friend, the blacksmith — he can produce it without a bending machine. On this pipe construction, wooden slats will be attached with pop rivets to create a surface that is as seamless as possible facing upwards. This surface can be covered with sheet metal using normal roofer techniques. I hope that once I know exactly how to do this professionally, I will be able to do it myself. The size is still manageable. My initially necessary considerations I will probably have to make "all by myself." I just have to decide (which is not my strength).