All these offsets in the interior walls: I wonder how one is supposed to properly lay the ceiling parts there. The entrance to the open space, which actually doesn’t exist but only results from a faulty Tetris, doesn’t create a nice spatial feeling.
By "offsets" you mean the corners to the left of the piano and refrigerator, I assume. Those could be easily removed. I’m happy to get concrete hints.
The windows above go up to about 220 cm room height. In that respect, none of your windows work, because they are all around the 2 meter mark.
Great, thanks. These can be easily changed in size and moved without causing problems with the furniture. In the bathroom, we might choose a flatter window.
Even the enclosed utility room doesn’t make life easier.
I moved the entrance to the utility room into the hallway, opposite the other door. This would make the room more accessible and give me more wall space for cabinets in the kitchen.
And who needs a 16 sqm office, and then a tiny sewing room of only 8 sqm? That’s basically 24 sqm nice to have, just wrongly allocated.
Oh, the mentioned room is still mistakenly labeled "office" on the floor plan. The room is somewhat larger because it’s intended for the following purposes: for guests, as storage for odds and ends, where the children possibly can set up a train without cluttering their rooms, and as a bedroom in old age when the tired bones no longer want to deal with stairs. But it can easily be reduced to eliminate the offset and enlarge the living room. The sewing room should be used occasionally, when madam wants to sew quietly, presumably in the evening when the children are in bed (problem with noise?). One surely doesn’t want children in the room while sewing who might steal needles or mess up things afterwards. Currently, she sews in the office/guest room and it’s already annoying to have to pack the accessories away all the time. Hence the separate small room.
The basement consists almost entirely of stairs. A 10 sqm single-level extension with daylight is worth much more than such a dark room.
Well, about one sixth of the basement is taken up by the stairs. And we do need storage space, especially if the attic option doesn’t pan out. But if one generally isn’t a fan of basements, I understand the objection.
Cost drivers. Focus on straightforwardness and simple construction.
You mean I should accept a lower knee wall height in favor of price, right?
If you don’t dislike the country house 142 that much, why don’t you take that model as a starting point and specifically tell us what you’d like to vary?
Good idea, I might do that in a separate thread.
Why you want to combine a knee wall of sixty-four and the minimum permissible roof pitch of your development plan, I don’t understand.
Well, I want the knee wall as high as possible. But we’re only allowed one full floor. According to the Lower Saxony Building Code, a clear height of >2.2m in the upper floor may only be present over a maximum of 2/3 of the ground floor area (if the sentence is too complicated, I can gladly quote the original passages). Consequently, I can determine horizontally on each side where the 2.2m clear height is reached. From there, I go with the lowest allowed angle (18°) to the exterior wall and end up with a knee wall of about 1.64m height. The disadvantage is that at this angle, the attic practically doesn’t exist. Hence the idea that the roof could get steeper from the 2.2m point to create an attic.
Not only as an attic but also for the residential rooms below, this only creates space that could be described as “more dead than alive” in the most flowery terms: you can’t really do much with it.
??? Sorry, I can’t make any sense of that funny sentence. Every single-family house with only one full floor and no excessive airspace has sloped ceilings. And the space under those slopes is “more dead than alive”?
How your wondrous hipped roof with progressive roof pitch is supposed to be constructed, I can’t figure out – maybe you could draw it once?
I’m attaching a sketch. There’s actually little wondrous about it.
Why hipped at all and not gabled, which is more space- and cost-efficient?
I want a gabled roof but mentioned that I’ve occasionally seen hipped roofs of this kind.
It seems to me that about a dozen thoughts from your perspective have Heureka hopes, but at the same time these thoughts are understood by no one except yourself, including very experienced forum users like Yvonne and myself. @ all: can anyone here "translate" what the OP’s train of thought is (or give a tip on what I should smoke to make it make sense to me)? I’d gladly help if I had even a clue...
Really?
Would it be possible (depending on what you had mentally included in the house costs) to spend 100-200k more?
Over 400,000 for the house could be possible. But this floor plan doesn’t seem particularly “sensible” anyway. I will look again more intensively for proven floor plans.
What actually is that cheap basement and what’s the catch? Or what is included in the costs and what is not?
The basement is called TechnoSafe from the company Glatthaar. I got the price info from the builder’s uncle. I can’t say more about it at the moment.
And what about forced ventilation? Where does the dry air from the dryer go then?
We’re planning with controlled residential ventilation, possibly the basement would then be included... Our condensing dryer would go in the ground floor utility room.
