Wall construction of a country house

Hello,

The first suggestion was 17.5 Poroton plus insulation.
I think that is the cheapest construction method.

No. 17.5 plus ETICS is about as expensive as a comparable monolithic wall structure.

It is simply the easiest way to make external settlement cracks disappear from the observer’s (builder’s) view; thus avoiding discussions with the builders. They still occur, but lie behind the ETICS.

From what I have read now, one should not build like that.

You should decide on a wall structure that comes closest to your wishes for a single-family house. There is no "the" brick, nor "the" wall structure; ultimately it also depends on your financial possibilities and the targeted efficiency status.

I am of course also interested in the experiences with Styrofoam insulated walls.

If you have chemistry as a hobby, you can surely follow the above posts

Rhenish greetings

No. 17.5 plus ETICS is about as expensive as a comparable monolithic wall structure.

I would leave that open... To achieve the U-value of 17.5 Poroton + e.g. 16cm EPS, you already need 50cm Poroton. Is that price-wise on par? Regionally certainly different. Of course, you can resort to filled Poroton. However, then the insulation is not on the brick, but inside the brick...

It is simply the easiest way to make external settlement cracks disappear from the eye of the observer (builder); thus avoiding discussions with builders. They still occur, but lie behind the ETICS.

And above all, the simplest way to achieve high insulation values with thin walls. Not everyone likes loophole-like windows. To get the same amount of light into the rooms again with very thick walls, I then need larger windows. Larger windows mean worse insulation again. A vicious circle...

Hello,

I would leave that open... To achieve the U-value of 17.5 Poroton + e.g. 16cm EPS, you already need 50cm Poroton.

No, you don’t. You forget to consider air as an "insulating material." The more porous and thus lighter the masonry is, the better its thermal insulation usually is.

Is the price comparable? Certainly varies regionally.

That should only be rudimentarily the case, since a complete work step is saved and thereby also the scaffold standing times are reduced.

Of course, you can resort to filled Poroton. However, then the insulation is not on the brick, but inside the brick...

I don’t see a problem with that; in my opinion, perlite or mineral wool are not comparable to EPS. However, currently you "only" need the filled brick if the builder wants to build ≤ Kfw 70. From 2016 onwards, these bricks should be encountered more frequently on construction sites.

Rhenish greetings

Hello,


No, it is not necessary. You forget to consider the air as an "insulating material". The more porous and thus lighter the masonry is, the better its thermal insulation usually is.

17.5cm Poroton T7 + 16cm EPS WLG 035 =>U-value: 0.138w/m²K
49cm Poroton T7 =>U-value: 0.14w/m²K

This should only be rudimentary the case, since a complete work step is saved and thereby the scaffolding times are additionally reduced.

Not necessarily. A monolithic wall is also plastered separately. The painter does not need much longer for an ETICS. What the painter takes longer on the ETICS is saved during masonry. The difference in effort has only a small effect on the scaffolding time.

Okay, I have already understood quite a lot. Apparently, there is no ideal building style. Still, my feeling about Styrofoam is not very good. For whatever reason. Second offer from the same construction company. 17.5 Poroton plus mineral wool as insulation and then clinker as a double-shell masonry. Financially just still within limits. Do we have the better choice with this? What about the described settlement cracks? How can they be avoided??? Best regards, Xinette

If you like clinker, certainly a good solution!

Settlement cracks unfortunately cannot be completely avoided. Especially in areas between masonry and drywall, they will appear sooner or later.