Soundproofing upper floor partition walls

That is why many solid house builders offer to construct the interior walls of an attic (DG) using lightweight construction. However, many homeowners then raise a big outcry because a "wall" clad with plasterboard is not solid after all, stubbornly ignoring that there is hardly a better solution for their attic; sometimes it’s really maddening!

For me, all interior walls are drywall partitions. If there are heavier loads (kitchen and bathroom), you just have to carefully plan in advance where, otherwise I only see advantages.

It is known that

Is that so? Of course, we do not know what the OP was told by his architect at the time, but apparently he does not remember the expert’s advice: "You can do it that way, but it’s sh ... [in terms of soundproofing, so if that is important to you, then ...]".

IMHO, that would have been exactly the architect’s task! I mean, for the floor plan design you are (rightly) sent to the architect here, but the client is supposed to plan the soundproofing himself?

Yes, that is how it is.

Every architect - creative or not - knows the advantages/disadvantages of their preferred building materials; explains them to their paying clients. Only references guarantee freelance architects a fulfilling professional life.

Why should the architect of the OP not have brought up the issue of soundproofing in the house?

Rhenish greetings from the road
Construction expert

Why should the architect of the OP not have brought up the issue of soundproofing in the house?

We can now take the OP at their word:

Unfortunately, the soundproofing within our single-family house was overlooked during planning.

Or assume that their memory is faulty or even accuse them of lying.

Personally, I could well imagine that there are all kinds of architects (it is obvious that there are quality differences, just as there is a range in high school and final exam grades). And of course, there can be entirely different reasons and circumstances.

Hello,

And of course, there can be completely different reasons and circumstances.

This is the aspect that often gets overlooked here, as the community of users tends to always believe the perceptions of other users

Rhenish greetings

Hello,


In this particular case, it is not simply the architect who decides, but you decide – or have decided – what should be installed in your house; even with a contract for work with a general contractor. You could have asked ... your planner could have explained VDI 4100 to you. I also do not see the necessity of being patronized everywhere and at all times; I don’t need "lefties" who believe, among other things, that they have to take the thinking off my hands.

It is known that sound insulation no longer plays a role from about 30 cm thickness in hollow bricks (Poroton); accordingly, 11.5 cm walls cannot meet that requirement. That is why many solid house builders offer to construct the interior walls of an attic (DG) in lightweight construction. Then again, the outcry of many homeowners is loud because a gypsum board clad "wall" is obviously not solid, stubbornly ignoring that there is hardly a better solution for their attic; sometimes it’s really maddening.

Get expertise into your house before you tinker around. If a retroactive solution is possible or, for example, if sloppiness occurred during floor insulation, he/she will notice it and present you with alternatives that can help.

Happy New Year!

"It is known..."
Maybe you can say that when you work in construction consulting. But most people only build one house, and while you can inquire in forums, you don’t think of everything—that’s simply impossible.
If someone now builds or has built a solid house, they should normally be able to assume that they won't hear whispers or quiet reading in the neighboring room. I find it inappropriate to say "your own fault" there. At least the company should point out that narrow walls can cause noise disturbances. If that is then not taken seriously or a thinner wall is installed for cost reasons, that is a different matter…
Since we did a lot ourselves, I also read a lot on the internet. I was aware that aerated concrete is considerably worse in terms of sound insulation than calcium silicate bricks. But I would not have thought it was that dramatic.
Of course, you also have to say that aerated concrete doesn’t have the same strength as calcium silicate bricks, so I find 115 mm walls borderline since, for example, you might want to attach a heavy washbasin and cabinets to them in the bathroom.

To come to a solution, I would start with simple remedial measures.
If you don’t hear anything downstairs when the children romp upstairs, the floor seems okay, so I would leave it alone for now.
You also said the floor installer did a good job, so he should have properly installed an edge insulation strip, but maybe you still know or can ask him.

FYI, we built with calcium silicate bricks and are very satisfied with the walls. However, since the ceilings consist almost entirely of gypsum boards, sound transmission from room to room was very noticeable here, although not as dramatic as you describe. That’s why we laid the ceiling or floor of the attic over the bedrooms and children's rooms with rock wool, I think 120 mm thick. Besides additional thermal insulation, which you feel clearly in the attic (we have a warm roof), sound insulation has improved significantly (you don’t hear shower or normal noises like TV at room volume in the neighboring room at all anymore (my wife sometimes does ;-p)), and through the thermal insulation, you will save money in the long term.
If you haven’t yet laid the attic floor with OSB boards or similar, this is a very easy and inexpensive way to improve sound insulation. Otherwise, remove the boards again and LABEL them (for example, in rows with letter-number combinations so you can reinstall them exactly the same way and don’t have to suddenly puzzle) and then insert the wool.
To get a (SUBJECTIVE) feeling whether this could help, one person could go into the attic and a second makes various noises downstairs in the attic or turns on the radio. Different tones (frequencies) should definitely be "tested" here, as transmission can vary greatly. If it is quieter in the attic than in the adjoining room, the problem probably lies more in the wall itself. Then you would probably have to do something both to the ceiling and to the walls.
For the walls, there is probably no simple quick solution since doors, electrical installations, wallpaper, etc. all have to be redone or changed.