Poroton T14 or aerated concrete climate standard PP2

Hello,
I can't make any sense of the 4! as a response?! Has some text perhaps been lost here?
Best regards.

Hello, I can't make any sense of the 4! as a response?! Has some text perhaps been lost here? Best regards.

No, but emphasized. Again: In my view, these are no longer stones in the truest sense. Simply a building material! Just as nowadays walls are no longer built by laying bricks, but mostly by gluing. Maybe it is a bit clearer now. Best regards.

I’ll join this thread.
I have a similar problem. The developer D offers me a masonry package with Wienerberger Poroton T10 in 36.5 cm. The remaining competitor instead offers Ytong aerated concrete W in the same thickness. The thermal conductivity of Ytong is 0.09, for the T10 it is 0.1. Both would also build with the other stone because both have advantages and disadvantages.
But with which stone can I make the best compromise?
Advantage Poroton: sound insulation, quick drying
Disadvantage Poroton: possibly problems with load suspension (picture, shelf, cabinet, etc.) due to the many chambers and with electrical installation (holes of flush-mounted boxes destroy the chamber structure, must be patched).
Disadvantage Ytong (aerated concrete): sensitivity to moisture, sound insulation.
According to developer P from Weimar, the T10 is also crack-sensitive, so a special mesh plaster must be applied and there is still the risk of small cracks which must then be painted over or filled. According to my favorite developer D from Sondershausen/Erfurt, there would be no problems if it were plastered professionally.
What about the moisture sensitivity of the PB? I think both stones must be covered horizontally during the construction phase. Rain hitting from the side is not the problem. Also, the exterior plaster is waterproof, so the problem should only exist during the construction phase, right?
Noise problems are rather unlikely for us but could still happen depending on who is building next to us.
So which stone is better on balance??? Even the advisor from Bauherren-Schutzbund e.V. said both stones have the above-mentioned advantages and disadvantages and neither is "better" than the other.
Please help me.

Hello,

Only, with which brick can I make the best compromise? Advantage Poroton: sound insulation, fast drying. Disadvantage Poroton: due to the many chambers, possibly problems with load suspension (picture, shelf, cupboard, etc.) and with electrical installation (holes of flush-mounted boxes destroy chamber structure, must be filled again). Disadvantage Ytong (aerated concrete): sensitivity to moisture, sound insulation.

For Poroton there are certain dowels, which – at first glance – is the only "disadvantage". With "36.5"-Ytong® sound insulation no longer really plays a role, provided the other components fit the overall trade. And regarding "water absorption" – I recommend buying a Ytong® brick and then letting it lie in water overnight. Then the alleged arguments of the competition are quickly disproved – Learning by doing.

The main difference lies in the different thermal insulation value. With Poroton an ETICS must be installed in front, with aerated concrete this is not necessarily required. If the choice falls on Poroton with ETICS, one should not save on controlled ventilation, otherwise there is a risk of mold formation. With aerated concrete, a ventilation system can be dispensed with – overall the indoor climate is better. Feed Aunt Google with "building biology" and you will find sufficient information on both systems.

So which brick is better overall???

If both bricks are installed according to the valid regulations/DIN standards, only your gut can answer this question

Kind regards

Hello Bulla,

I cannot follow your statement that with Poroton masonry, an ETICS must always be installed. Why should that be done? To comply with the Energy Saving Ordinance/KfW? Several reputable developers have not told me anything about that. The T10 in 36.5 cm also has only a minimally worse y-value compared to the aerated concrete Ytong W. We will have a controlled residential ventilation installed. Without ETICS, as I definitely want to build with a single layer and want a "real wall."

The decisive factor is the U-value, isn't it?

Walls made of hollow bricks without filling have higher thermal conductivity in the vertical direction, especially if they have been mortared with conventional thin-bed mortar that does not reliably seal the holes => convection. And – unfilled hollow bricks with low thermal conductivity only offer limited fire protection; however, for several years now, Poroton bricks with perlite filling have been on the market. Compared to conventional hollow bricks, these offer better thermal insulation as well as higher fire protection => higher costs for masonry. Moreover, the hollow brick is a challenge for every electrician anyway.

This “problem” does not arise with aerated concrete, and the last 2 dB in sound insulation in comparison between Poroton and aerated concrete is really marginal for a 36.5 cm wall.

Kind regards

I built with Poroton 30 cm and placed a clinker wall in front of it.
great indoor climate
Poroton also retains heat in the house
you get a picture and other things fixed to the wall
and if your house is not finished yet, Poroton does not absorb rain and it also doesn't take long to dry out.
for me, only Poroton