Renovation of a 1960s house: Questionable expert recommendations?

How is it: Are the subsidies for heating system replacement currently available for new owners as well?

In any case, I would do the roof, basement ceiling, and possibly windows. Then, of course, install underfloor heating and switch to a heat pump. Such a small house with the aforementioned measures can easily be heated with a 5-7 kW heat pump, even without external insulation. Photovoltaics should be installed on a newly roofed roof completely independently of all other measures. Fully covered. It pays off on its own. The storage is the screed; the others are left out.

Okay, thanks for the feedback.

Okay, the kitchen is not part of the renovation. Then it’s clear why you were surprised. Still, it has to be included and we need money for it.

- Electrical: plenty of outlets, probably also network, possibly provision for an e-charging station
- Insulation above the rafters, because in my opinion it is mandatory (no top floor ceiling available) and because – from a layman’s perspective – it is expected to have the least problems with mold or similar.
- Remove wooden floors? Probably depends on the routing of the existing cables. There are no plans for this. Is it naive to carefully remove the existing floorboards and subsequently reinstall them (pictures attached)? Underfloor heating is not initially planned because both the expert and you first talked about gas boilers. What sort of cost item would that be approximately?

Currently, no subsidies have been taken into account yet.

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Underfloor heating between 100,- and 150,- €/sqm.

You can also use wall and ceiling surfaces - but it will cost about the same if properly plastered afterwards.

And since you will have to switch to a heat pump at some point (because we want to become CO2-free), I would install the underfloor heating now. Especially, of course, if you are eligible for funding. Currently, you get 35-50% back.

Another advantage is the space gain by eliminating radiators. The alternative, if you don't do it, is an even greater loss of space due to the installation of larger radiators...

In that year of construction, there is often still a bulky internal chimney for the oil heater installed. You can shut it down when switching to a heat pump and either gain space again or use it as a supply shaft (electricity, LAN, water, ventilation).

Is it naive to want to gently remove and then reinstall the existing floorboards (pictures attached)?

I think it is. They are often nailed at an angle (at least the ones I have pulled out so far). And then there is nothing to be done (except firewood).

Then you currently get 35-50% back.

... and not only for the heating. Also for the gutting, the installation of underfloor heating, the screed, and also the new flooring. Worth considering more than once.

- Electrical: plenty of sockets, probably also network, possibly provision for e-charging station

Then your calculation is significantly too high for electrical, since you only want standard stuff.

- Above-rafter insulation, because in my opinion mandatory insulation (no top floor ceiling present) and because – from a layman’s perspective – it is expected to cause the least problems with mold or similar.

Insulation mandatory yes, but you have chosen the most expensive insulation possible. Because you also need a complete new roofing of the roof. It really only makes sense if the roof has to be re-roofed anyway. Otherwise it’s throwing money away. Alternative is insulation between rafters and insulation of the top floor ceiling (then the rooms that do not count as living space would only be storage rooms) – then it would cost about only 1/4 of your budget.

: Thanks for the remark about the chimney repurposing.

Yes, insulation is mandatory, but you have chosen the most expensive insulation possible. You also need a complete reroofing of the roof. It only really makes sense if the roof has to be redone anyway. Otherwise, it's just burning money. An alternative is insulation between the rafters and insulation of the top floor ceiling (then the rooms not counted as living space would only be storage rooms) – that would then cost about 1/4 of your budget.

I know it is the most expensive method. The tiles are 40 years old; I posted pictures earlier. The two rooms in the attic (not included in the living space) are small, but fully usable as an office/children's room and are intended to remain so.