Massive double garage vs. prefab garage vs. carport

It depends on the foundation that is needed. My father needed 4 strip foundations for his concrete prefabricated garage (6x9 m is then 3 parts). You can make them yourself. As for costs: a weekend of work, a concrete mixer, cement, sand, reinforcement. At most 300 €.

Hello everyone. I am Alex, 32 years old, and I come from Dortmund. I am also planning a garage with the dimensions 6x9m.

I have received offers from prefabricated garage manufacturers and somehow consider them way too expensive. I have prices for a precast concrete garage ranging from 28,000 to 32,000 € without the foundation. For a timber frame garage, about 20k is quoted. Also without the foundation. For the foundation, I estimate about 2000 euros.

I am quite skilled in craftsmanship... Now my question about building the garage myself in solid construction:

Statics/design 800 €
Material costs for sand-lime bricks including mortar 3800 €
Roof construction 2500 € for an FD
Garage door electric from Novoferm 2800 € 5000x2250
Window 150 €
Back door 600 €
Machines/tools partly available. Still 500 €
Helpers for the project 1500 € (shell construction)
Electrical equipment 600 €
Plaster/clinker 1500 €

That sums up to 12,350 €.

Of course, it takes time. But I have that too. I have a lot of planned personal contribution like floor finishing, paving etc. But I have 60 days of vacation available for this plus overtime.

My question to you: Is this calculation somewhat realistic? So it's not about being 500 euros off.

As a garage budget, my wife allocated me 20,000.

Thanks and best regards

Alex

What does Fd construction mean to you? How do you want to seal it?

Plaster and clinker alone will cost more than 1500, keep in mind inside and outside you easily have 100m2

How do you want to finish the garage floor? Tiles? So you need screed
Another 1500 euros,
Tiles also at least 1000 euros, you can't use 10 euro pieces and stand on them with the car, they will break.

Excavate foundation

Hello Tomtom,

Thanks for the quick response. Only the front and possibly the back will be brick-faced. The side facing the neighbor will be treated with [Rollputz]. It will not get any brickwork.

I did not want to plaster the interior. I haven’t planned that so far. Sand-lime bricks look okay. It’s not supposed to be a living room.

The garage will be built on a poured concrete foundation and the floor is supposed to be "only" sealed later. I restore vintage cars. Therefore, there will temporarily be quite a lot of oil on the floor. I think sealing will work quite well.

How do you otherwise assess the calculation? Feasible?

Ps: [FD] = flat roof. Wood/concrete construction, sealed with tar paper.
Regards, Alex

Hello Pentox,

what is the current status of your garage by now?
When you say "wood/concrete" for the roof, do you mean that the "mason's crown/attic cover" is made of wood and the roof is made of precast concrete or that the slope is made from a wooden substructure?

I have a similar plan.

ZDF:
Double garage: 7m x 8m x 2.8m
Roof: flat roof; semi-precast concrete slab to be poured (no wood formwork for "mason’s crown")
Sectional door (north side): 5500mm x 2250mm (electric)
Double window + large door (south side)
Strip foundation with filling stones + reinforcement
Paved driveway/floor
with lighting, sockets, sink, etc.
Interior wall: simple plaster; exterior wall: same plaster as the house
Project will be carried out by myself except for attic cover.

According to my research, such a garage as we aim for costs around €20,000.
I have budgeted €20k and am confident this will be enough.

@all:
what do you say about the slope for flat roofs?
According to the roofing association, there should be 3%. However, my builder says that 0% is even better for the waterproofing. Reason: the waterproofing does not experience frequent changes from dry to wet and vice versa. He said this example can be seen with logs stored in water, where the completely wet and completely dry parts are okay, but the area constantly exposed to changes is not optimal.

Regards, Chris

My professional liability insurer, however, says that having 0% slope is even better for sealing. Reason: the seal is not subjected to frequent changes from dry to wet and vice versa.

I love such folk physics

Theoretically, with a "zero slope," the water disappears with a steadily lowering level into the drain – which holds true at least as long as the drain is located in the center of the surface (and – which is unlikely to happen – no vortex forms in the drain). In practice, such ideal laboratory conditions can safely be relegated to the realm of myths and legends. A vortex will form in the drain pipe, water will take the longest to leave from the corners, and a drain pipe in the center of the roof would be possible in a double garage, but who wants that. What theoretically opposes the uniform drying by uniform drainage with "zero slope" (the sun would also have to be directly overhead the garage center, obviously, right?) is in any case the surface not being perfectly level in practice. This means a colony of small puddles where the water only evaporates.

With a 3° slope leading to a drain in the corner, you will be well served in practice despite all the nice farmers' rules.